Last updated: June 1, 2023

In the Weeds

When Ashley Boyd, then known mostly as one of the city’s best pastry chefs, took creative control of 300 East in 2019, we were curious to see how her pastry chef’s ability to marry unexpected flavors and textures into a cohesive plate would translate to the restaurant’s savory side. As a staple in Charlotte’s culinary scene since 1986, 300 East has a clientele that’s been visiting the restaurant for decades — a fact that made us wonder whether Boyd would be able to infuse her culinary skills onto the menu without pushback from those who’d been enjoying it without much change for so long.

Subtly, she has. While a first glance at the menu doesn’t indicate a significant shift, the nuances on each plate certainly do. Improving the sourcing of proteins such as salmon and chicken was a start. The menu isn’t the most adventurous, with dishes such as burgers, steaks, and salmon creating a classic American curation. What makes 300 East stand out, however, is the way the restaurant takes these well-loved dishes and recreates each component, resulting in a bite that makes you reconsider what comfort food should taste like.

The pan-seared Springer Mountain Farms airline chicken breast highlights this ability to take a modest entrée and give it panache. Every layer is packed with flavor, from the well-seasoned chicken to the herbaceous gravy and tomato jam. It’s known as a simple American dish, but at 300 East, a bite of each element on its own provides a more exciting taste than the entire plate might at another restaurant. The filet and its corresponding gorgonzola cream bring the same joy. I continue to wonder whether 300 East, quietly excelling in Dilworth, will be the first restaurant to bring home a James Beard Award in the America’s Classics category, one that honors long-running restaurants. It certainly deserves consideration.

Of course, no review of 300 East can skip over the continuing excellence in desserts.  When Boyd took over as culinary director, her former position of pastry chef was first filled by Laney Jahkel-Parrish, whose Duke’s Mayo cake impressed our StrEATs Festival celebrity chef Amanda Freitag so much, she brought it home to New York sandwiched between paper plates. Parrish has since left 300 to pursue personal projects and dessert duties now fall to current pastry chef Alexa “Lex” Druhan. Thanks to their combined culinary talents, brunch at 300 East is among the best in town, whether you’re seeking something seasonal and sweet, such as the cast iron sweet roll, or savory and satiating, like the chicken and biscuits.

As expected in a restaurant you’d find in a warm, historic home, servers connect with guests on a personal level. The patio, with greenery and shade as well as fans, is a quaint setting to enjoy a bite and drink any time of day. You’ll find little that’s trendy inside; the dining room is brightly lit through large windows during the day, while the abundance of wood accents reflect light warmly in the evenings. Instead of chasing haute cuisine, 300 East reminds us that the dishes that bring us comfort have just as much ability to bring us culinary delight as anything else.