Last updated: September 6, 2023

In the Weeds

One of the questions I’m frequently asked is this: What is your favorite new restaurant? These days, the question becomes more complicated, as “new” spans a much longer time frame thanks to the pandemic. However, my answer is not often what the person asking expects. If asked, more specifically, “What restaurant do you think is creating the most innovative food?” or “which restaurant has the most impressive new chef?” the answer may be something different. But as for my personal favorite these days, the answer is The Artisan’s Palate.

The small space between Plaza Midwood and NoDa is the kind of casual spot you can refill your spirits as well as  your glass of wine. Opened by chef Christa Csoka in late 2019, the restaurant is open morning to night, serving breakfast and coffee in the morning and small plates and cocktails in the evening. Diners are surrounded by local art that changes each month; Csoka wanted her restaurant to also be a home to the artists being displaced by development in NoDa. As a result, the restaurant embraces a “come as you are” vibe. 

The welcoming staff nurtures that feeling, providing service that connects on a personal level. The restaurant’s minimalist design is made warm by the art on the walls, all for sale by local artists. Garage doors open to a large front patio when the weather allows, and a woodsy back patio serves as an oasis from city noise. 

It’s the kind of place you can sit for hours, and the menu encourages that.

With options meant for snacking and sharing, The Artisan’s Palate is one of the best venues in town for meeting with friends you haven’t caught up with in far too long. The by-the-glass list is long, or you can also pick a bottle off the retail shelves to open with your meal. On the cocktail lists are classic drinks and more inventive versions of them among an extensive selection separated by spirits. For the lovers of bitter drinks, the restaurant serves an entire menu of Negroni options.

My favorite order at The Artisan’s Palate is the olive tapenade board, which comes with naked grilled bread and instructions on how to layer the Castelvetrano olives, goat cheese, garlic cloves, olive oil, and salt on top. The bite of the garlic is softened by the creamy goat cheese, and the olives and olive oil add a buttery texture to the spread. The dish’s lightness makes it enjoyable even on Charlotte’s hottest days. The bacon-wrapped dates are bites that pair well with wine and conversation.

The larger dishes bring a masterclass in cooking technique without being showy. Csoka cooks her octopus to a textbook texture, grilled to bring extra flavor; and the slow roasted pork belly is tender without being overly fatty. For plant-based diners, the vegan empanadas are a tasty and refreshing change from the usual options of salad and veggie burgers. 

That, of course, is only dinner; The Artisan’s Palate offers a limited version of its dinner menu during lunch hours, and serves breakfast sandwiches and pastries each morning. Coffee is available all day, making this a place where you want to meet with coworkers, too.

When Csoka first explained the concept of The Artisan’s Palate — Breakfast! Dinner! Wine! Art! — it seemed like a lot to pull off. However, by building a business rooted in providing a place for a community that’s rapidly losing ground, Csoka earned a community that supports her and her business with equal fervor. And it’s that feeling of community that makes The Artisan’s Palate a place you want to return to.