Last updated: December 5, 2023

In the Weeds

There’s a misconception in the U.S. that non-European international cuisine should be cheap. And while places with plastic plates and bare-bones dining rooms may not provide the experience to warrant a $20+ entrée, those with thoughtful interiors and high levels of service should be able to serve their food at the same market price as other restaurants.

Rai Lay Thai Cuisine, along South Boulevard in South End, is one of those places. It’s the second restaurant from the owners of popular Myers Park restaurant Deejai Thai. The interior is unique and soothing, with stone tile and dark colors that bring a serenity to the dining room. It’s a beautiful restaurant, one that bucks the trends of exposed brick and wood to create a look that reflects what’s coming out of the kitchen.

Since opening, the menu has shifted to include more traditional Thai dishes in lieu of some of the lesser-known ones, and added a sushi list. That was likely a sound business decision, but a hint that the city still has a ways to go before every Asian restaurant (even Thai ones) has to serve sushi. The sushi is small but done well, however — fresh and flavorful, and available during lunch and dinner. It’s a tight list, with expected rolls like shrimp tempura or spicy tuna as well as a handful of signature rolls. Lunch service takes place Tuesday through Friday, and all entrées are served with a bowl of soup.

Although you’ll find tasty pad Thai and lo mein among the main dishes, the best orders here are things you likely haven’t tried before. Servers are helpful at guiding you through unfamiliar dishes, especially by pointing out dishes that will fit with your own spice preference, as things can get spicy. A personal favorite is the kao soy, a mild dish from Northern Thailand. Served in a big bowl with your choice of protein and a lime wedge, the curry noodles topped with crunchy noodles and shallots has a trace of heat paired with layers of flavor. Another dish to try is the papaya salad appetizer, shredded papaya and carrots in an earthy, salty sauce.

For evening diners or lunch-time drinkers, there’s a full bar at Rai Lay, with a cocktail list that’s adventurous and well-chosen as well as wine, beer, and sake options that will satisfy most customers.

Most dishes are served with a bright pink and white orchid as a garnish, a beautiful touch that helps raise Rai Lay above simple Thai restaurants’ heaping plates of noodles arranged in a clump with a lime thrown on top. Rai Lay’s kitchen sends a clear message that our assumptions about Thai cuisine are wrong. Just because you can call up and order an $11 dinner somewhere doesn’t mean this food is simple. Rai Lay’s delicate flavors and thoughtful touches, beautiful dining room, and experienced front-of-house team forces diners to appreciate the nuance of Thai cuisine. And if we’d let them instead of demanding sushi, they could show us even more. —Kristen Wile