Last updated: December 12, 2023

In the Weeds

The are perils with being as impressive as this place is: Your diners become unfair critics. Give them so many impeccable dishes, and one that might be good elsewhere becomes a misorder here.

Of course, it’s rare for dishes to fall below the standard Peppervine has set for itself. Owners Bill and Anita Greene, known for their restaurant Artisanal in Banner Elk, have been a near-constant presence at Peppervine since opening their first Charlotte restaurant in March.

The front-of-house falls under Anita’s oversight, and it’s refreshing to see a chef-driven restaurant that has a partner equally invested in the customer experience. From the moment guests arrive, they’re entrenched in the Peppervine experience with explanations of Greene’s no-boundaries menu, the kitchen’s method of coursing out a meal (diners are encouraged to order everything at once), and in-depth wine knowledge. If there’s a question your server can’t answer, the sommelier will be sent for. On one visit, the somm happened to pass by our table after Jon had gotten up to go to the bathroom, and we chatted as he folded the abandoned napkin. Small actions like these show that Anita has curated a staff that’s invested in the restaurant’s success and the guest experience. Plates are removed promptly, silverware reset between courses, and glasses paid attention to. This is not a place to expect a quick meal; the way the dishes are served — a course or two at a time — translates to a long, leisurely dinner. During that meal, you’re hopefully taking advantage of the impressive wine list, with offerings from the biggest labels to fantastic, lesser-known wines worth paying attention to.

It’s hard to pin down chef Bill Greene’s cooking style, which centers on Southern ingredients and global flavors. From the dining room, you can see his constant focus through an open window into the kitchen, with chef Greene in the center.

The pimento cheese scones are a mandatory starter, and indicate Greene’s ability to take an international staple and add a Southern twist. The pappardelle “carbonara” is a thrillingly indulgent dish, with a truffle cauliflower sauce, Nueske’s bacon, and a 62-degree egg served over top. Our server saw the plate hit our table and came over with purpose: to expertly mix the dish so the runny egg yolk coated the pappardelle. Jon and I could have eaten three of these. Even the salads come layered with textures and flavors, and the small and shared plates section is where the menu truly shines. The roasted beets, with a description of smoked ricotta, marcona, and grilled cucumber, might make you tilt your head on paper, but will make you lick your lips on a first bite. The tastes of the crab salad on the restaurant’s debut menu is still fresh in my mind. Greene is unafraid to use heat in his dishes, so if you’re spice-averse, be sure to consult your server before you order.

The restaurant is stellar in both service and food, but the interior leaves some room for improvement. With impressive art installations, much effort was made to take a sterile SouthPark space and turn it into an establishment with personality. Yet the shiny, floor-to-ceiling windows, towering ceilings, and faux grasscloth placemats make me yearn for some of Artisanal’s unforced personality. The art on the plate and of service here, however, make it clear Peppervine will be a Charlotte staple for a while — with any luck, long enough to begin feeling as though it’s been there forever. —Kristen Wile