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March 21, 2023

Cheese Wisdom: A tale of two blues

One’s creamy and subtle, one’s bright and flavorful


by Anita Skogland

Both of these cheeses are from the Bavaria region of southern Germany. I found them during the same week and thought it would be fun to compare them as they are similar, and different.

The Cheeses: Grand Noir Blue Kaserei Champignon, Bavaria, Germany and Chiriboga Blue Kaserei Obere Muhle, Bavaria, Germany

Where to Buy: Grand Noir: Culture Shop, $25/lb.; Chiriboga: Orrman’s Cheese Shop, $35/lb.

The Style: The Grand Noir has a thick, black wax rind that is not edible. The cheese is white with very dark blue veins. It is semi-soft. When you remove the black rind, you might see a cloudy grey on the cheese – that is fine. It is edible and tastes just like the cheese.

The Chiriboga is a butter yellow color with medium-blue veins; the rind is fully integrated into the cheese, and edible. The Chiriboga is soft and spreadable.

Flavor Profile: The Grand Noir has a strong blue flavor – softer than Roquefort, and stronger than Chiriboga. Aged for 2-3 months. The Chiriboga is very buttery and has a slight blue tang. It is aged for a month.

How to Enjoy: Both cheeses would be great on a cheese board and in salads. The Chiriboga would be wonderful melted and poured on roasted gold potatoes or toast, or served with pickles or pickled onions. The Grand Noir would be lovely with sweet apple slices or raspberry jam and Marcona almonds.

Wine Pairings: Both cheeses are good with prosecco, sparkling Loire rosé, and hearty red wine, such as merlot, syrah, Rhône blends, or Rioja.

Extra Reading: Both cheeses are made from heritage breed Bavarian cows. The interesting aspect of this tasting is to highlight how similar beginnings can yield very different final products. The cheesemaker’s production style, the aging process, and the type of mold used to inoculate the cheese all have a profound impact on the cheese you eat. FYI: The Grand Noir is lactose-free and uses vegetarian rennet.

Check out the rest of our Cheese Wisdom picks!

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