Last updated: February 28, 2026

In the weeds

by TM Petaccia

As UP editor Kristen Wile wrote in a past newsletter open, “With the Kindreds, the couple’s complementary talents make for restaurants that are impressive in just about every way. Albertine is no different — the couple’s attention to detail makes dining there an immersive experience.”

Named for our city’s namesake’s mother, the word that best describes Albertine is “polished.” Stepping in from the center city bustle of South Tryon Street is like stepping through a portal into one of Europe’s grand dining rooms. From the marble-laden bar/lounge area to the main dining room with its well-spaced tables accented with plush leather curved banquettes, the space is refined without being haughty. In her design, Katy Kindred has managed to create something highly sophisticated yet still welcoming.

The service staff is equally polished in their smartly attired blue tunics, as well as with their courteousness and attentive nature. They all seem to know the difference between providing watchful service and being intrusive. They will gladly offer suggestions if asked (the ones I’ve spoken with each have favorite cocktails and dishes, mostly different ones, so it’s pretty clear no one is being asked to “push” anything). Even the younger servers conduct themselves like they’ve worked in five-star restaurants for decades. Old school service by a new generation. Amicable. Efficient. Polished.

With Albertine, five-time James Beard semifinalist Joe Kindred, along with chef de cuisine Mark Machanic, have created a Mediterranean-focused menu that includes little nods to his Southern roots. A prime example is his take on hot chicken — except that it’s quail, Southern fried, topped with a slightly fiery Aleppo pepper (popular in Turkish and Syrian cooking) infused honey, and placed over a cooling cucumber labneh (strained yogurt). Middle East meets Nashville. Smart and delicious.

Similarly, the restaurant’s take on shrimp cocktail pairs poached deepwater Georgia shrimp with a black mustard seed toum (a Lebanese garlic sauce similar to aioli). The house razor clams, diced and severed on the shell mixed with Pedro Jimenez potlikker and sofrito, can easily become an “every time order.” Lamb kefta is a tartare-type dish in which the meat is ever so slightly grilled and served with sunchoke chips and other accouterments. The wood-grilled chicken liver toast with black mustard on benne seed sourdough is a tasty and fun share. Lighter starters include a cucumber, onion, and dill salad; spicy pickled okra; turmeric-pickled cauliflower; and white Turkish anchovies. It’s quite easy to have a quite filling meal of mezze and apps and never get to a main dish. Something we’ve done on several visits.

Once you get there, though, there are excellent entrées to be found. The “From the Grill” section of the menu offers a nice mix of fish and meat dishes. On the meat side, standouts include labneh-marinated chicken thighs dusted with green coriander and the restaurant’s unique version of steak frites. Grilled hanger steak is served with bone marrow bordelaise, and instead of the run-of-the-mill fries, round potatoes are lightly smoked and deep-fried. The dish is served with a seeded chermoula (relish). It’s a dish that’s familiar and exotic at the same time. On the seafood side, North Carolina steelhead trout has been there since the beginning, but with different interpretations, currently served with a turmeric-laced white barbecue sauce with roasted Brussels sprouts and the aforementioned potatoes. Many dishes here do rotate in and out, according to season, so you may be disappointed that a dish you labeled as “next time” may not be there on a following visit.

The one real outlier on the menu is the ribeye steak, which is likely a concession to the mainstream diner (there’s always that one person in the party who “needs” to see a big steak on the menu). While excellent, at twice the price of any other entrée ($98), you’d be better off focusing on the restaurant’s more concept-appropriate and creative dishes.

A small list of à la carte sides includes velvety smooth labneh mashed potatoes, hot honey carrots, and a mix of wood-fired vegetables. The dessert menu is also short, but well-executed. The house cheesecake features a creamy, lightly sweetened focal custard on top of a graham cracker base, piled high with fried phyllo shreds, and surrounded with roasted pistachios and apricot sauce. Other standouts are the house’s more icy options: pistachio gelato and raspberry sorbetto.

Albertine boasts an extensive wine list, curated by 2025 UPPY Sommelier of the Year finalist Danny Ike, and a well-conceived craft cocktail program. The recent addition of mixologist Sean Teague, formerly at Folia/Built on Hospitality, has already had an influence on the cocktail menu, including his Tradewinds Daiquiri with a touch of madeira.

While there have been little to no hiccups with Albertine’s food and service operations to date (one time out of ten visits a hanger steak was slightly overcooked), there are a couple of factors worth mentioning. One is parking. Uptown parking can often be confusing. The restaurant is located at Duke Energy Plaza. Since there are a few buildings Uptown that bear the Duke Energy moniker, make sure you pull into the right parking deck. However, if you manage to find the right one, Albertine will give you a voucher to cover up to three hours of parking. The other is although there are a wide range of land and sea dishes, those who live a purely vegetarian lifestyle may not find enough options.

There is no doubt that Joe and Katy Kindred have covered all the bases with their newest endeavor. On the regional and national stage, Albertine has already received rave notices from Bon Appétit and Eater Carolinas. It will come as no surprise should this member of the Kindred clan of eateries be the one to finally remove the term “Beard semifinalist” from the Kindred name. Although the Michelin investigators bypassed Albertine on the first go-round (Kindred and Hello, Sailor got deserved recommendations), we doubt it will stay that way for long. But honestly, what could be better than being the 2025 UPPY Restaurant of the Year?

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