Last updated: February 18, 2025

In the Weeds

by TM Petaccia

With four successful restaurants and a fifth on the way, Birdie Yang is very likely the most under-the-radar restauranteur in the Charlotte area. His attention to sourcing quality ingredients, as well as his passion for all things sake and wine (he has numerous international certifications in both), are a clue to the level of experience you can expect at all his concepts and especially holds true at Yama LoSo.

Not merely a clone of his other Yama restaurants in SouthPark and Waverly, Yama LoSo is an evolution spawned from the two. The interior is sharp and stylish, a cross between Japanese minimalism and an indulgence of subtle textures from the walls to the chairs. The menu is also an evolution, with many kushiyaki skewered dishes last found at the now-closed Yama Izakawa in Plaza Midwood joining the sushi/sashimi fare, along with select entrées.

The restaurant offers a nice list of sharable hot and cold starters, including its take on the popular Cantonese shrimp (ebi) shumai: steamed shrimp dumplings topped with masago (capelin fish roe) and spring onions. It is both delicate and flavorful. Another standout is the trumpet, a.k.a. king oyster, mushrooms, which are gently sautéed and topped with sesame seeds and red pepper threads. Other notable starters include the flight of bluefin akami, chu-toro, and otoro tuna; flash-fried shishito peppers; fried pork dumplings (gyoza); and edamame (steamed in-pod soybeans), seasoned with your choice of sea salt, truffle salt, or house spice.

The main attractions here are the numerous sushi and sashimi options, thanks to the high quality of fish. Shipments are flown in twice, sometimes three times, each week. The best word to describe the raw seafood choices here is “pristine.” You can “taste the clean,” as it were. All the fish can be characterized by their supreme freshness and delicate texture. The menu boasts a wide range of maki and temaki rolls, including its versions of California and spider rolls, as well as showcasing everything from salmon and yellowtail to tuna and lobster. There are also some veggie-only rolls available.

The rolls fit the niche and are quite good, but it’s the more straightforward nigiri and sashimi options that make Yama LoSo worth hunting a LoSo parking spot for. With fish this fresh and clean, it deserves to stand on its own. À la carte orders give you two pieces of nigiri or three pieces of sashimi each. The offerings include the aforementioned hon-maguro (Northern) bluefin tuna in akamai (lean), chu-toro (medium-marbled belly), and oh-toro (highly marbled belly) cuts. Other options include hamachi (yellowtail), lean salmon, salmon belly, surf clam, sea urchin, squid, freshwater eel, mackerel, and shrimp, plus the non-fish traditional tamago (egg). While most of these can be found on other sushi and sashimi menus throughout the city, the superior quality here makes them exceptional. The choices can be overwhelming, but Yama Loso also offers chef’s choice options for both, which will occasionally include a surprise specialty fish not available on the regular menu.

One of my favorite spots in Charlotte was Yang’s now-closed Yama Izakawa on Central Avenue. The restaurant focused more on yakitori and kushiyaki grilled and skewered dishes over sushi offerings, as well as stellar ramen bowls. While the ramen, sadly, is still on hiatus, kushiyaki items can now be found at Yama LoSo. Choices include a tasty Korean-style beef filet with shishito peppers, pork belly, tiger shrimp, and chicken. They provide a nice balance to the raw dishes and make for a well-rounded sharing experience.

The entrée section of the menu is short, but again well-executed. Standouts include the restaurant’s version of miso cod, now a staple at most high-end Japanese eateries. Here, the black cod is sautéed and brushed with a miso reduction and served with garlicky bok choy, pepper threads, and steamed rice. A slight negative can be given to the restaurant’s choice of dried red pepper threads as a garnish to many dishes. They are quite lovely and certainly make for good Instagram posts, but when ingested often give an unpleasant tickle to the back of the throat.

An excellent duck breast is seared and served with a honey-sansho glaze, accompanied by trumpet mushrooms, brussels sprouts, and steamed rice. You’ll also find a selection of teriyaki-glazed meats and vegetables along with a number of yakisoba noodle dishes.

Dessert options include a creative and delectable matcha passionfruit cheesecake — plus ice cream stuffed mochi (rice cakes) and a toothsome raspberry-chocolate dome.

To accompany your food, Yama LoSo offers one of the city’s most extensive sake lists, second only to Yang’s premier restaurant, Baku, in SouthPark. Choices range from quite affordable to “I hope I can expense account this.” Many are available by glass/carafe in addition to full bottles. The bar program offers a number of craft cocktails, many sake-based. Some lean a little too much on the sweet side and may be more suited for after dinner rather than an apéritif. Wine choices reflect the same quality and research Yang puts into his sake choices and can stand up to many of the city’s more upper-tier lists.

Service is courteous, knowledgeable, and quite helpful in assisting you in making food and beverage choices.

In addition to dinner service, the Yama LoSo is open for lunch 11:30 a.m. – 2:45 p.m., Tuesday-Sunday. Many of the dinner items are available, as well as excellent bento boxes.

The restaurant does offer valet parking during dinner hours, which is a plus since this neighborhood, like most of LoSo and South End, is notorious for hard-to-find open parking. There is a CATS parking garage available to the public for those who prefer to park themselves, but depending on your pace, will provide you with a 5-10 minute walk before and after your meal.

Yama LoSo is a full reflection of Yang’s attention to sourcing, execution, and passion. It is definitely a go-to spot for sushi lovers and lovers of fine sake and wine.