September 15, 2021
Wine list review: The Fig Tree
The deep wine list can be overwhelming. We’re here to help
Report Card
Strengths: France, Italy, California red wines; half bottles; trophy wines
Weaknesses: Rosè selection, white wines that are not chardonnay-based
By the glass overview: Well-developed list with very good options in a variety of categories. The Fig Tree is open seven days per week, so the by-the-glass wines are not sitting on a counter or in a refrigerator for two days half full and losing their essence. Pro tip: If you are going to a restaurant on a Tuesday night after the business is closed Sunday and Monday, I would be reluctant to order a glass of wine unless it was opened fresh on Tuesday.
Scores (Out of 5)
- Selection grade: 4.8
- Staff knowledge grade: 5.0
- Value grade: 4.0
- Overall grade: 5.0
In the Weeds
Our first review is The Fig Tree, located on East 7th and Louise in the historic Lucas House. The Fig Tree has been in business for more than 16 years. Owners Greg and Sara Zanitsch have extensive restaurant resumes and are both very knowledgeable about wine. This passion for wine shows clearly in their wine list of nearly 900 selections. They adjust their wine list seasonally, just as they do their food menu.
Wine consumers are often a bit overwhelmed by a list with 30 pages, especially when they see wines that cost more than $1000. Guests tend to order something they are familiar with so they don’t make a mistake. I hope to break this list down for you so you can relax and have a wonderful adventure with wine options that are delicious, affordable, and pair very well with the food selections. It is also my experience that The Fig Tree staff are well trained in assisting you with selections, so don’t hesitate to ask questions.
The wine by the glass list is a good place to get something refreshing while you consider your food order. The Sokol Blosser sparkling wine from Oregon ($10), the Roco Gravel Road Chardonnay ($15), or the Bergstrom Cumberland Reserve Pinot Noir ($17) are all flexible, food friendly options for the 10 appetizers offered. There are also ½ bottles toward the end of the wine list that yield about 1-½ glasses per person (for a table of two). We had the Thierry et Pascale Matrot 2017 Meursault; at $68 per 375 ml., not inexpensive but a good value for a white Burgundy wine of this quality. The Merusault had a rich complexity and well integrated acid to pair well with the burrata, shrimp or crab, and would not get lost with the lamb or pork belly hash.
Chef Greg Zanitsch owns The Fig Tree with his wife Sara, and both have extensive wine knowledge. Peter Taylor/UP
There are four main course selections that include fish or seafood: trout, halibut and lobster, salmon and cioppino. If you are both selecting something from the sea, some wines to consider are Tegernseerhof Durnstein Gruner Veltliner ($46), Cantine Ermes Quattro Quarti Grillo ($45), or Domaine LaRoche St. Martin Chablis ($65). If white wines are not your favorites, consider a light red, such as Netzl Zweigelt ($40) or Chauvet Frères Morgon Beaujolais ($55). They will all compliment the sauces and cooking methods.
If your preference is one of the four meat offerings: pork chop, elk chop, filet mignon or veal chop, a couple of good value wines are the Hartford Court Pinot Noir ($65) and Worthy Sophia’s Cuvee ($80). If there are four or more in your group, consider a magnum of Patricia Green Freedom Hill 2015 – it never disappoints and at $161 for a magnum, it is a very good value.
The Fig Tree list has a lot of depth and good values in the Other French Red category, Italian Red and Super Tuscan, and US- based Pinot Noir. If you are out for a splurge meal, consider the California Cabernet Sauvignons, Red Burgundy, or Bordeaux. And if someone else is paying and the price is irrelevant, I would select the 2014 Domino de Pingus Pingus at $1510 per bottle. It is very young but when properly decanted, it will be a joy to sip.
Dining at a restaurant like The Fig Tree is not in everyone’s budget; a wonderful way to get familiar with their quality and service is to get a seat at the bar and order an appetizer and a glass of wine – and ask questions. The bartenders are affable and just as well trained as the rest of the service staff.
