March 31, 2025
Unpretentious Cooking: Sofrito Recaito Lamb Tacos
with kohlrabi and roasted poblano slaw
by Chef Matthew Krenz
A few weeks ago, I was at the farmers’ market, and I overheard a patron asking a few questions about organ meats and some of the lesser cuts. While this recipe doesn’t depend on it, I challenged myself to use a cut that most people would discard. The farmer had brought up kidneys, which to me is a rough starting point for an introductory course into offal cuisine. I let the patron know I had overheard and immediately asked if they would consider hearts. We had a brief conversation, and I hope I was able to remove some of the fear. This recipe uses another forgotten cut, but it is one of my favorites and considerably cheaper than other subprimals. Tongue is one of my favorites. Forgotten in American cuisines, it’s versatile and has such a clean flavor. It lends itself to many applications. I have pastrami-brined and smoked beef tongue for charcuterie boards. This application of lamb tongue brings big flavors with minimal work. I hope you challenge yourself to step outside the box with which cut you use, but if it’s not as adventurous as tongue, that’s okay, too. Cheers!
Sofrito Recaito Lamb Tacos with Kohlrabi and Roasted Poblano Slaw
Serves 4-6

Ingredients:
16 oz. lamb (I used tongue, but you can use any cut)
½ cup sofrito recaito (available at Whole Foods)
2 oranges with their juice, halved
32 oz. beef broth
½ yellow onion, large dice
3 guajillo chilies, seeds and stems removed
3 small kohlarbi, sliced on a mandolin
⅓ c. sweet onion, sliced on a mandolin
4 French breakfast radishes, sliced on a mandolin
1 roasted poblano, seeds and skin removed, sliced on a mandolin
2 tbsp. crushed tangerine vinegar
3 oz. fresh squeezed orange juice
2 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp. cumin
Salt, to taste
Feta cheese, or similar, to preference
Cilantro, with stems, for garnish
Fresno chili, thinly sliced
Tortillas, to serve
Directions:
1. In a large cast iron skillet, bring lamb, oranges peels with juice squeezed into skillet, guajillos, beef broth, yellow onion, sofrito recaito, and salt to a boil, adding enough broth to cover the meat, and reduce to a simmer.
2. Cook for 2½ to 3 hours or until tender.
3. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, toss sweet onion, kohlrabi, radishes, and poblanos with orange juice, tangerine vinegar, olive oil, salt, and cumin. Set aside for later.
4. Once the lamb is tender, allow to rest. Pull the lamb and season with some of the sofrito recaito and salt.
5. Spoon your lamb onto the tortillas, then add slaw, feta, and fresno chili. Garnish with cilantro.
6. Season to taste; enjoy immediately.






