by Chef Matthew Krenz

Ramp season is officially underway; those delicious wild onions are popping up around the markets. I’ve always tried to ask how they were harvested to make sure families will be enjoying this tradition for a long time to come! If they are foraged, they should be cut above the root system, leaving roots in the ground to regrow next season. Some farmers have been sustainably raising them, and harvesting can be done to their preferences. I’m a big fan of grilling the garlicky long bulb part or pickling and using the tops in a number of different ways. In this recipe, I use the tops to make a punchy pesto to be folded into some creamy rice grits for a spring side dish.

Ramp top pesto
Makes ~2 cups pesto

2 bunches ramp tops, cleaned well with bulbs reserved
¾ cup firm cheese, such as aged gouda
1 c. blanched almonds
½ c. extra virgin olive oil
Salt to taste

1. Add ingredients to a blender. Blend until smooth and season to taste with salt.

Rice grits with ramp top pesto
Serves 6-8 

1 c. rice middlins, a.k.a rice grits*
4-5 tbsp. butter
½ sweet onion, finely diced
½ c. dry white wine
3½ c. vegetable or chicken stock
½ c. ramp top pesto (start with less and add to desired taste)
Salt and pepper, to taste

1. In a medium sized saucepan on medium heat, add half of the butter and the onion. Sweat the onion until fragrant and translucent. 
2. Add the rice, stir until well coated and rice becomes fragrant. Add wine and reduce until almost dry. 
3. Reduce to a simmer over medium-low heat. Add the stock, allowing one cup at a time to absorb, stirring regularly. Once the rice grits have softened and bloomed to your desired texture, add in remaining butter. 
4. Remove from heat and stir in the ramp pesto to keep the brightest color. Serve immediately.

* Rice grits, technically rice middlins, are the broken pieces of whole grain rice produced during the hulling and polishing process. In this area, the variety you’ll find is heirloom Carolina Gold, which has a long and storied history. You can buy Carolina Gold rice grits online at Tidewater Grain Co. and Anson Mills.