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    August 19, 2020

    Unpretentious Cooking: Brioche

    Use this dough as a base for breads, cinnamon rolls, doughnuts, and more


    I would never call myself a bread baker; my knowledge of bread is rather limited. When I do make bread I tend to lean towards softer, more airy doughs like milk bread, brioche, and country white bread. These breads rely on yeast (fresh or dry) rather than a starter that requires constant attention, care, and a human name. I prefer the non-starter breads because they are quicker to make and are easily adaptable to be savory or sweet. 

    This brioche recipe is as neutral as it can be, making it great for sandwiches, dinner rolls, or cut up and dried for bread pudding. It is also a very adaptable recipe that can handle added flavor. If you want a garlicky or herby brioche dough, you can sub the butter with your compound butter of choice and once baked, brush the top of the bread with melted compound butter. You can also add a nut or seed butter to the dough when mixing to give the bread an earthier, rich flavor –– about ¼ – ½ cup depending on how intense you want the flavor to be. This dough is also great for making cinnamon rolls, babka, sticky buns, monkey bread, and even doughnuts. This is why brioche is my favorite bread —  it is one recipe that can make 10-plus different things (and didn’t require me naming my starter). ––Justin Burke 

    Braided brioche loaf. Photo by Carter Short Photography

    Brioche
    Yields 2 loaves

    Ingredients
    Sponge
    ¼ cup whole milk, warmed
    2¼ teaspoon active dry yeast
    ½ teaspoon sugar
    2 eggs
    1⅓ cups all-purpose flour 

     

    Dough
    1⅓ cups all-purpose flour
    ¼ cup sugar
    1 tablespoon salt
    3 eggs plus 1 egg yolk
    7 ounces unsalted butter, chilled and cubed 

    Loaves
    2 eggs
    1-2 tablespoons milk 

    Directions 

    For the sponge 

    1. Using the bowl of a stand mixer, combine milk, yeast, and sugar. Whisk by hand until the yeast has dissolved. Once yeast is dissolved, whisk in eggs. Slowly fold in 1 cup of flour until almost combined and sprinkle the remaining ½ cup of flour over the top. Set aside, uncovered, to proof for 30 minutes or until the dough has cracks on top and is soft to the touch. 

    For the dough 

    1. Add the flour, sugar, salt, eggs, and egg yolk to the sponge. With the dough hook attached to the stand mixer, mix on low speed until the dough starts to come together. Increase to medium speed and mix until you can see the dough come together around the dough hook, about 8 to 10 minutes. 
    2. Stop the mixer and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add half of the butter and mix on high speed. Once the first half of the butter is incorporated, add the second half. Continue mixing until the dough is silky smooth, about 10 to 15 minutes. Decrease the speed to medium-high and mix until the dough comes off the bowl. The dough is ready when you are able to take a piece of dough and stretch to form a gluten window.
    3. Scrape the dough into a lightly floured bowl or plastic container. Fold the dough in half and press down, flip dough over and fold again and press down. Cover and refrigerate for 6 hours or overnight. 

    To make the loaves

    1. Butter two 9-inch loaf pans. Lightly flour a work surface and divide the dough in half. Shape one half of the dough into a 12-by-6-inch rectangle. Divide the shaped dough into three strips lengthwise. Starting at the top of the strips, braid the dough together. Place into one prepared pan. Repeat with the second half of the dough. 
    2. Cover the loaves with plastic wrap or a towel. Let sit at room temperature until doubled in size, about 2 hours or until the dough has reached the top of the pan. To test if the dough is fully proofed, press down with your finger, the dough should feel like a pillow and spring back but leave a partial indentation. 
    3. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Whisk the eggs and milk to make an egg wash. Brush the top of the loaves with the egg wash evenly, then generously sprinkle with sesame seeds or salt. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes until golden brown. Let cool in pans on a wire rack.

     

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