Last updated: May 3, 2023

In the Weeds

In the lead up to The Crunkleton’s opening, Charlotte cocktail drinkers were ecstatic. The legendary Chapel Hill cocktail bar owned by Gary Crunkleton was coming to town. It finally opened its doors in February 2019 after serious construction delays, creating even more of a rush to get in the cocktail bar’s doors. Yet our experiences since then have been somewhat confused.

The long bar and library-style shelving of the Chapel Hill original were recreated, though with a little more shine, for the Charlotte location. The bar itself is stunning, and bartenders in bowties make the bar stools the best seats in the house, even if the bar could stand to lose a few of those seats. The massive seats with little space between make it difficult to slide in without pulling them all the way out from the bar then scooting back in.

Crunkleton himself is a pioneer in the North Carolina beverage scene, paving the way to legally serve antique spirits. The antique spirit collection at The Crunkleton here in Elizabeth is now in full swing, and brings a unique educational opportunity to town for those who can afford the high-priced pours. The bar staff is educated on the collection, and are always happy to share their knowledge as you sip.

However, the table seating and open kitchen at The Crunkleton create the feeling that this place is more of a restaurant with a nice bar than a cocktail bar. The noise level in the restaurant negates the lounge feel most cocktail bars benefit from. The menu doesn’t do much to help with The Crunkleton’s split personality, either, jumping around from traditional bar food such as wings to an $130 cowboy ribeye, which we ordered once and were disappointed to find such a high-priced item overcooked and charred beyond an enjoyable measure on the wood-fired grill. The manager noticed and comped the dish, but I won’t be taking the risk on that dish again.

Even practically, the menu struggles to be cohesive, with handheld items such as burgers on one page with the desserts and sides, while the mains are on a separate page underneath salads and small plates, even though burgers and fried chicken sandwiches seem to be more at home with chicken wings and gumbo. Among the dishes, you’ll find a meal fit for sitting at a cocktail bar, or a meal more at home in a fine dining restaurant, leaving you to decide which Crunkleton you’re there to experience.

There’s little negative to say about the nights when you pull up to the bar with your back to the tables and enjoy the best of The Crunkleton, however. A well-trained staff, hand-cut ice program, and deep cocktail knowledge and creativity are why we were all so excited for The Crunkleton to arrive in the first place — and why you’ll always find us at the bar from here on out. —Kristen Wile

Recent Tasting Notes

08/16/2022

After writing our initial review of The Crunkelton, things have been steadily improving, so we’re adjusting the restaurant’s star rating. Recent trips included a really toothsome and creamy gnocchi with duck, mushrooms, and truffles as well as a magnificent pork shank osso buco with cheese grits and roasted vegetables. There’s also been a cleanup of the menu design, making it a bit easier to read. We’ve adjusted the food and overall stars accordingly.