Last updated: September 30, 2021

In the Weeds

Supperland is one of the best new restaurants Charlotte has seen in years. Some may have better food, or better service, possibly better cocktails or ambiance, but few achieve the all-around excellence of Supperland.

It didn’t take much time for the restaurant to find its footing despite opening in a pandemic, a testament to the strong team owners Jamie Brown and Jeff Tonidandel, a wife-and-husband team, have built. From its opening, the service has been impeccable, with a staff that understands the menu thoroughly and is attentive without being stuffy. Every detail is given attention, from the state of your silverware to the presence of a sommelier to guide you through wine selections.

Indeed, from the moment you step into Supperland to the vista of a bustling kitchen where a church altar once was and a long dining room haloed by opulent chandeliers, the experience begins. Like the restaurant group’s other concepts, Supperland’s menu is influenced by a sense of place while remaining approachable.

The restaurant is a mid-century church that Brown and Tonidandel restored, preserving the original characteristics of the congregational hall. With four long rows of tables parallel to one another, the space is reminiscent of communal dining in a large church banquet room. The space is a blend of old and new design with bold patterned bathroom floors, exposed brick walls and rafters, large print wallpaper, brass finishes, and custom plateware.

The menu takes inspiration from church potlucks, a nod to the restaurant’s former use as a church, as well as the classic steakhouses abundant in this city. A wood-fired oven helps cook the steaks to near-perfection, and textbook seasoning combined with the selection of tender cuts puts Supperland top of mind on those nights when you’re craving a steak. The pork can-can is easy to overlook in favor of the steak options, but don’t: the bone-in pork belly and loin pairs melt-in-your-mouth fatty pork belly with tender bites of loin.

While steakhouse sides and church potlucks may be opposites in terms of formality, there’s a surprising amount of synergy between the two, mainly in that they’re fitting for family-style service. The Sunday supper-esque mac-and-cheese and franks and beans feel at home in the more casual setting and pair well with the hearty experience you want with a steak dinner, while dishes like the charred carrots — cooked tender, with a spicy sorghum glaze that offsets the carrots’ natural sweetness — would be at home at either style of meal. A must-order is the smashed potatoes, boiled until tender then smashed and deep fried, giving them a crunchy exterior that gives way to a tender inside. Visually, the nostalgic food is not overly chef-driven — you recognize it once it arrives — but the flavors are bolder and fresher, making you wish the questionable ambrosia salad grandma made you eat as a kid was as good as what Supperland serves. The prices can be a sticker shock at first, but once the intent of the menu is explained –– that potluck is another way of saying family-style or shared plates –– you understand how to navigate the menu. Brown and Tonidandel are also open about the prices, advocating for a livable wage for restaurant employees through adjusting our expectation of menu prices. Perhaps that willingness to charge enough to better support their staff is one of the reasons the restaurants continue to exceed expectations despite the difficult times we’re in. 

At any good steak house, there must be a wine list to pair, and with sommelier Michael Klinger on board, Supperland has curated a list that pairs beautifully with the menu. Mixologist Colleen Hughes presents similar expertise with the cocktail list, setting a new standard for commonly known cocktails like the cosmo and negroni. As someone known for innovative mixology, Hughes takes a risk with a menu of classics, but makes a statement that old can still be new. 

From the beginning, Brown and Tonidandel had a clear vision for what they wanted Supperland to be. Despite noise around the pricing at opening, they stuck to that vision. We’re grateful they did. Supperland is now setting the standard for what Charlotte restaurants are capable of — across the board.