Last updated: December 5, 2023

In the Weeds

Restaurateur Ford Fry, owner of Superica in South End, knows there is more to a good restaurant than the food. His name is recognizable enough to put him in the celebrity chef category, but his understanding of staffing and branding are equal to that of his cooking. That can be seen in Superica, a Tex-Mex spot that draws a consistent crowd even considering the generous size of the place.

In Charlotte, the city’s large Latino population means you can get stellar, authentic tacos for a great price in any direction from Uptown. While Superica’s food is good, if we were going dish for dish, I’d take a taco from Anita’s Mexican Grill off Yorkmont Road over one from Superica. There’s a noticeable difference you taste when dining at a small place run with heart by a tiny staff when compared to a restaurant adapted to a bigger city with the purpose of business growth. Superica’s menu is somewhat predictable, with fajitas, enchiladas, nachos, and tacos. The portions and the flavors are both big, and go well with margaritas. We recommend taking some time to snack on some chile con queso with chorizo and sip on cocktails before deciding on your meal.

That’s because it is Superica’s casual, high-energy environment that is the restaurant’s greatest allure. The restaurant’s neon sign reading “Tex-Mex” in bright green lettering over a red arrow pointing to the restaurant’s entrance and the neon outline of a jackelope that changes to appear as if it’s running are the first signs of Superica’s playfulness. The dining room is surrounded by windows, bringing in plenty of natural light to heighten the bright colors on the plates. The back of the dining room opens to the kitchen, bringing a base level of noise that encourages animated conversation.

The kitchen staff struggled a bit with consistency in flavor early on, but has since grown to deliver familiar flavors on each visit. This is due, in large part, to Superica’s ability to retain talent through his restaurant group’s training program. In the current labor shortage, cooks can move from restaurant to restaurant for a raise. Both front and back of house workers here have the chance to grow their careers within the restaurant group by being identified as a star employee and undergoing training to ensure their career advances.

A night — or even afternoon — at Superica is bound to be a fun one. Fry has created a menu that’s simple enough to be easily replicated, but an experience feels unique and invigorating. Dining is as much about the show as it is the plate, and Superica is pure entertainment. —Kristen Wile