Last updated: July 1, 2021

In the Weeds

If you walk into Sea Level expecting an oyster bar and seafood shack like the ones you find along the coast in small beach towns, you will be disappointed. Sea Level is an upscale version of those beloved summer shacks with characteristics of a metropolitan lifestyle. 

The clean lines and minimal interior are as far away from nautical as it can be; the oyster menu near the bar is the closest thing that screams “we have seafood and we’re proud of it.” Located in Uptown with a smallish dining room makes getting a table on any night relatively hard without a reservation. The times I’ve been there, I have sat at one of the large community tables, either because I was walk-in or because the restaurant was behind on reservations. 

I don’t mind a community table, but the one at Sea Level can be a little crowded since it’s in the bar area with folks standing around waiting for drinks. It’s certainly not a place to sit when you’re on a date or want to have a meaningful conversation. 

On the menu is a mixture of seafood staples from states known for seafood and fish. If you grew up along a coast eating seafood, you can find something that reminds you of home. At first, the hodgepodge menu doesn’t seem to work — tacos, soba noodles, po boys, and fried catfish seem an odd combination. If you stand back and see the bigger picture, though, Sea Level is a celebration of American seafood cuisine and culture. 

I recommend sharing at Sea Level. The mains are substaintial, but the raw bar and shared plates are the standouts. I also think seafood should just be shared, the activity of breaking into a crab leg or finding the right condiment to raw oyster ratio is a team activity and requires everyone’s input. The selection of raw oysters come from up and down the West and East coast. I prefer East coast oysters and recommend ordering them all, I like the cooler water oysters and find them to have more salinity that I enjoy. I have had several versions of the fresh catch ceviche and have yet to be disappointed — the choice of acid and fresh herbs and fruit for the fish is always the right balance for the flavor of the featured meat. From the shared portion of the menu, make sure to get the Maine mussels, a clean and classic dish that lets the mussels shine, and the corn fritters, hearty corn cakes with an addicting spicy aioli. 

Honestly, you could order the entire raw bar and share selection and not walk away disappointed or hungry. If you’re on a date or just looking to treat yourself, order the Hearst Seafood Tower (lobster, oysters, mussels, clams, shrimp, salmon tartare, and black sturgeon caviar). It’s a showstopper for only $125! 

Service can be a little spotty both from the front of house and back of house. On two different occasions, part of my order was never made and not caught until I notified our server. On a separate occasion it took 25 minutes to get our selection of oysters and first round of cocktails. I’m not sure whether there is inexperience in the kitchen or lack of awareness training with service staff, but this same error happening multiple times seems to be a pattern that Sea Level shouldn’t want as their reputation. 

That’s something to keep in mind for meals before a show at the Blumenthal or event at Spectrum Center, as the kitchen running behind can throw off a tight schedule. If you find that occasional seafood craving and can’t make it to the coast, think of Sea Level to feed the craving and remember no matter which coast you grew up on Sea Level has something for you. –Justin Burke-Samson