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    May 6, 2021

    Q&A: How to get over tasting menu sticker shock

    Each week, we answer reader questions about food and drink in Charlotte


    Q: I absolutely love chef’s dinners and had the opportunity recently to enjoy a fabulous dinner at Counter-. I felt it was worth what we paid – although it was about twice as expensive as our typical fancy night out – because of the ‘theater’ of it all: the way Chef Sam Hart explained the inspiration for each dish, talked about the wines as he was serving, and in general was a gracious host for the evening. It was very special.

    But I worry that, unlike Charleston or Atlanta or even Asheville, where there is a lot of tourist traffic, for a city like ours, the customer base for these kinds of special restaurants may be limited. I’m planning to patronize Counter- as much as possible, and I actively seek out chef’s curated meals here and elsewhere. But I’m just one woman. What can I say to my foodie friends to get them to appreciate the value of a chef’s dinner and that it is worth the (comparatively) high price point?
    Kristen: Thank you for asking this question. You have a point — one of Charlotte’s biggest draws for out-of-towners is family and friends in the area, so it’s on us to be the advocates for experiences like this. My biggest argument for the price point is this: you’re experiencing the restaurant in the precise way the chef wants you to. To me, there is no truer way of understanding a chef’s vision than a tasting menu. If you choose to do a pairing, you’re also experiencing the harmony of food and beverage in a way you can’t do while ordering one beverage with your meal.

    The added cost is tangible, too. For one thing, the meal takes much more time, meaning the restaurant is able to seat fewer people. The servers are hustling to get your table cleared between each course, and everyone in the kitchen down to the dishwashers must work in sync to get plates to the table on time.

    Another point to make is it takes a highly skilled restaurant to pull off a tasting menu, more expensive ingredients, and more labor. You should expect to pay more, just as you would expect to pay more for hiring a renowned hairstylist versus going to a beauty school.

    Q: Hi! Do you know what’s going into Halcyon? There was a photo of the museum on Axios’ insta post about new restaurants, but I couldn’t link any mentioned to it, except maybe one that’s based elsewhere.
    Kristen: Yes, some details. The space is still in the hands of Something Classic, which owned Halcyon. It will become a new restaurant, with Halcyon’s executive chef Jonathan Moore still at the helm. While they haven’t released the name yet, it will still highlight Southern ingredients but with more international influences. The restaurant’s name hasn’t yet been released, but Something Classic’s Jill Marcus says to expect a press release with more details this month. “This has been such a joy to create, we just want to be able to share all the elements as they come together,” she says.

    Q: Trying to find outdoor for 6 for Friday night, mainly SouthPark area but can go a little outside of it. Taking my wife, son and mother (and spouses) for birthday dinners. Dad won’t eat Mexican or Asian, sadly. Tried Village Tavern and Reid’s and they’re booked. Any good suggestions?
    Kristen: Yeah! I’d try Dogwood Southern Table or Dilworth Tasting Room’s new SouthPark location. Bar Marcel has a small patio, as does Peppervine, though both will be among the most expensive options. If you’re looking to go more casual, you could try Legion’s SouthPark taproom.

    Q: Best catering options for dinner parties?
    Kristen: It depends on what you’re looking for! If you’d like family-style, I’d check out Table & Twine, Something Classic, of Chef Alyssa’s Kitchen. If you’d like a coursed meal, I’d suggest either ordering in bulk from Your Farms, Your Table or Patrick’s Gourmet, or reaching out about having one of those chefs cook at your home.

    Q: Who is your favorite current casual caterer in Charlotte, now that we’ll be able to have barbecues again?
    Kristen: Looks like everyone is planning some celebrations! For barbecue, Sweet Lew’s or Midwood Smokehouse. We’ve gotten food catered from The Hot Box and it has been fantastic. Earl’s Grocery also does casual catering very well.

    Q: What’s your favorite post-vaccine splurge restaurant? 
    Kristen: I’ve really been craving a visit to The Fig Tree, but that first question also makes me want to head back to Counter-! Another would be Peppervine. My, I’ve got a lot of reservations to make!

    Q: What is a common element among restaurants that succeed in Charlotte?
    Kristen: This is an interesting one! Something I’ve noticed is that chef-general manager ownership works really well. You’ll see that in the success of restaurants from married couples — Kindred, The Fig Tree, Leah & Louise — and I believe it’s because there’s equal focus on all aspects of the dining experience. They don’t have to be married couples, of course, but having ownership focused on the service and environment as well as the kitchen makes a restaurant more wholly extraordinary.

    Q: Do people get it? Why are they still calling for large parties for Mother’s Day? That’s the question!
    Kristen: My guess is those who are vaccinated expect things to go back to normal for them, without considering the fact that restaurants won’t know who has been vaccinated and who hasn’t. Imagine if restaurants started requiring proof of vaccination!

    Have a question? E-mail to us and we’ll answer it next week!

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