Last updated: July 31, 2024

In the Weeds

by TM Petaccia

When Paul Verica closed The Stanley in 2022, I openly wept, for two reasons. One, I was going to miss Verica’s brilliant takes on boundary-pushing cuisine (I still do), and two, I was terrified of what might take its place. What national corporate carpetbagger concept was going to ooze its way onto Charlotte’s culinary landscape this time?

My fears were quickly abated when 1957 Hospitality announced it signed on for the property, giving the North Carolina restaurant group a trio of concepts — it already operated The Crunkleton and Rosemont — on the corner of 7th and Pecan in Elizabeth. Puerta opened in 2023 with a focus on all things agave (primarily tequila and mezcal), plus a menu offering the authentic and rich flavors of Mexico.

Named for the many hidden doors discovered on the property, Puerta’s decorative entry door is actually on the back of the property, which may be a bit confusing for a first-timer. The anteroom lounge has a cool blue vibe designed for more intimate conversations or just grooving to the house music, which includes DJs during dinner service Thursday through Saturday and brunch on Sundays. The restaurant’s main dining room is vibrant and festive, with indigenous-style wall art, woven fabric bar stools, and decorative dining chairs and tables.

Puerta is a tequila and mezcal paradise. Beverage director Micah Yarbrough spent months researching, curating, and wrestling with the the state’s ordering system to develop the Charlotte’s (and probably the state’s) most extensive collection of agave spirits, which he is more than happy to guide you through (sip, don’t shoot). Some of these make their way to the house cocktail list.

The bar menu lists a tight selection of margaritas, as you would expect, with some flavorful variations. My go-to here is the coin-style margarita, which adds a touch of orange liqueur to the standard agave syrup and lime base. Another twist is to substitute mezcal for tequila for a more smoky experience. Off the margarita trail, other standouts on the cocktail menu are the tequila old-fashioned, the house paloma, and the La Fuente, which merges mezcal with Cardamaro (a wine-based amaro infused with cardoon and blessed thistles), dry curaçao, and mole bitters. If you are looking for whiskey, gin, or vodka drinks, don’t look here. While there are a few options at Puerta, a better idea would be to enjoy what Yarbrough has skillfully put together to enjoy with your meal, then walk next door to The Crunkleton for a nightcap. You will also find a nice selection of nonalcoholic cocktails and Mexican beers, plus a very minimal wine list. But again, this place is all about agave.

The food at Puerta is under the direction of executive chef R.J. Corley and 1957 group executive chef Greg Balch. Corley has an extensive background in Latin cuisine, dating back to his days at Aaron Rivera’s Tapas 51. While the menu may look relatively standard for a Mexican restaurant, I can assure you the flavors aren’t. They are deep and earthy with well-balanced spice notes that, when applicable, bring the heat without setting your eyeballs on fire.

The house mole is a fitting example. It is intensely flavorful and has been used with several dishes since the restaurant’s opening. It is currently showcased alongside a seared duck breast. However, the showcase dish at Puerta is cochinita pibil, a wonderfully braised pork shank for two, served with an assortment of condiments — guacamole, salsa roja, mole (again), queso fresco, cilantro, lime, and onion — with house-made heirloom tortillas. It is served on a large slate plate. How good is this dish? Between the aroma of it coming to the table and the succulent vision of the beautifully cooked meat, the dish was halfway consumed before my dining companions and I failed to remember to take a photo — on multiple occasions. In this Instagram-centric “the camera eats first” world, I can think of no better compliment than that.

On the smaller side, there is a varied selection of tacos, including carne asada (marinated and charred ribeye), barbacoa (beef cheeks), lengua (beef tongue) fish, shrimp, al pastor (braised pork), a very interesting chicken tinga, and others. All are worth getting and sharing. The tacos are traditional sized and made with Puerta’s excellent housemade tortillas. There is also a selection of empanadas — a favorite being the lamb birria empanadas, slow-cooked lamb encased in flavorful pastry.

Other menu standouts include the house chicken soup, sopa de lima. A bowl of shredded chicken, various chilis, radishes, cilantro, and a lime slice comes to your table while a server pours a well-executed chicken bouillon onto it. The chicharrones at Puerta are made from heritage-breed pork belly and are both crispy and meaty. 

A dinner concludes with one (or more) of three dessert options, quatro leches cake, chocolate flan (very dense), and the house churros, wonderfully fried without being greasy, cinnamon-sugar coated, and served with two sauces, dulce de leche and spiced chocolate — totally worth saving some tummy room for.

Puerta serves dinner until 10 p.m. Sunday through Wednesday; 11 p.m. on Thursday; and midnight Friday and Saturday; making it a great spot to satisfy those late night cravings.

The restaurant is also open for weekend brunch, with some of the items from its dinner menu, plus an assortment of egg dishes — most notably the papas (potatoes) con chorizo and divorced benedict sope — a fried masa base topped with black bean purée, shaved cabbage, cilantro, onions, lime, chorizo, and poached eggs with mole verde and mole rojo hollandaise.

Overall, service is welcoming and knowledgeable, although there have been a few occasions when we experienced a bit of a lag sitting at the tables during not-too-busy times and a bit of forgetfulness. At the bar, the bartenders are extremely engaging and seem to handle heavy rushes with ease. 

While the styles of The Stanley and Puerta are vastly different, the chef-driven spirit and devotion to quality food are the same. The new restaurant adds a bit of a high-energy vibe and has all the makings of a popular neighborhood hangout. The location remains in excellent local hands.