Last updated: December 6, 2023

In the Weeds

More and more Midwood Smokehouses keep opening, but you can’t tell based on the restaurant’s quality. The barbecue spot picks the best smoked meats from around the U.S. and brings them to one menu, from Texas-style brisket to St. Louis ribs and Carolina pork.

The barbecue draws a packed restaurant at lunch and dinner, and at most times, the ribs are fall-off-the bone tender and the brisket can be cut with the side of your fork. On rare occasions — mostly dining late in the evening — the meat can taste a little dry. But that’s the difficulty of a smokehouse; you can’t throw another set of ribs on the grill. They need to make the rounds in the smoker for hours and hours. So sometimes they sell out; rare times, it can dry out. Here, you’ll find a reliable adaptation of classic ‘cue to a full-service restaurant.

What Midwood Smokehouse does best is bring barbecue into a family-friendly dining room with solid service and a stocked bar. The menu goes way beyond smokehouse fare, with a dynamite hamburger, filling salads, and warm sandwiches — the Cuban is unfairly overlooked. I could eat a plate of sides for a meal; the creamed corn retains some juiciness in the kernels, and the collards bring a bit of heat.

Owner Frank Scibelli (Yafo, Mama Ricotta’s, Paco’s) is known for expanding his restaurant empire without letting concepts feel like a chain. Scibelli sold his Bad Daddy’s Burger Bar in 2015 after growing to more than a dozen locations; shortly after, there seemed to be a dip in quality. Scibelli is a stickler for consistency, and is willing to pay to keep that quality. That willingness to invest in his product likely comes back around in sales, as it keeps guests coming back.

The front of house is smooth, as well; many servers are young, but not inexperienced. The staff is attentive and friendly, and you feel as though they’ll remember your family’s names the next time you come back. Charlotte barbecue hasn’t really been defined yet, but maybe it’s this: the rugged, smoky aspect of it stays on your plate, which is enjoyed in a dining room oozing with Southern hospitality.