by TM Petaccia

The Yiddish word “Meshugganah” loosely translates to crazy or foolish. During the height of the COVID lockdown, chef Rob Clement says he made the “crazy decision” to launch Meshugganah, a pop-up concept focusing on traditional Jewish deli dishes. It proved to be wildly successful, and led to a joint venture with Jon Dressler at Joan’s Bakery at The Metropolitan in Midtown.

Then the unspeakable happened. In 2025, his beloved wife, Franki, passed away. Finding himself a single dad with two children, Meshugganah faded as he and his family dealt with the loss.

But as he says, “Cooking is an itch I have to scratch. So it’s crazy again. I’m starting over with two little kids and no help.”

Clement has secured ghost kitchen space at City Kitch in West Charlotte, and will relaunch Meshugganah, next Wednesday, February 18. Initially, it will be a lunchtime solo operation, running 11 a.m. – 3 p.m.. Wednesday-Friday. Eventually he hopes to expand staff, dinner hours, and extra days as the business grows.

“Right now, it’s just me,” Clement says. “If business dictates, I’ll start hiring staff. If people start coming out of the woodwork asking to work with me, then I’ll be fine with that too.”

Meshugganah will feature a concise deli menu anchored by matzo ball soup, pastrami on rye, potato and onion knishes, and kugel (a gently sweet, tightly layered noodle casserole). Once operations settle into a steady rhythm, Clement plans to broaden the offerings, including two zero-waste–inspired additions: pastrami knishes and a pastrami-and-turkey matzo ball gumbo, both designed to repurpose the trimmings that might otherwise go unused in sandwiches.

Clement may carefully carve his pastrami for sandwiches, but it comes to making it, he doesn’t cut corners. The brisket is rubbed from a special spice blend from Motown Spice. “It is coriander and black pepper heavy with a lot of mustard notes,” Clement says. The meat is brined for seven days and then smoked for twelve hours. It is then steamed before service.

He also revealed his secret for making his light and airy matzo balls, “Topo Chico seltzer,” he grins.

Meshugganah will also offer catering services with a slightly expanded menu.

Desserts including deli favorites black-and-white cookies, chocolate babka cookies, and rugelach will be suppiled by Meztger’s Bakery, a new Jewish bagel and pastry popup by Carlie Sauer, whom Clement is supplying consultant services.

“I just miss cooking food for people,” Clement says about his return. “It’s what I know how to do. I’ve been doing consulting and that’s great, but being hands on in the kitchen is very important to me.”

The other important thing is passing on the culture of Jewish Eastern European food to his children. “I’m teaching my kids the food of our family and why it’s important. I’m back. Back to cooking. And that’s all I need.”

Maybe he’s not so crazy after all.