Last updated: March 15, 2023

In the Weeds

by Travis Mullis

I never realized how dull and flavorless most store bought hummus is until I tried the homemade variety at Le Kebab in University City. I’ve also never tested the limits of my love for garlic quite as much  as when smearing large quantities of the white garlic sauce onto pita at Le Kebab. Both are high compliments for one of the city’s best Middle-Eastern eateries. Very few restaurants  in Charlotte pack as much interesting flavor into every bite quite like Le Kebab Grill, located right off the blue line in University City. 

The only real drawback of Le Kebab Grill is easy to notice as soon as you walk through the front door. The space is hemmed in by the jigsaw-like division of the building, and the counter where you order takes up a large chunk of the square footage, leaving a relatively small space for the dining area which can get crowded when patrons start to pack the place on weekends.

You’ll likely forget these shortcomings once you sit down to eat. It’s best to start with the combination plate starter, a choice of three of their delicious appetizers. I usually go for a combination of falafel, yalanji dolma, and hummus, but if I’m getting the shawarma over hummus, I will opt for the labneh, a strained yogurt that has the consistency of cream cheese and the tang of feta. Yalanji dolma are simply the Turkish equivalent of stuffed grape leaves, and Le Kebab Grill’s are on the wetter and more acidic side. I could write an essay on the fried perfection of the world’s first hushpuppy, the falafel. Needless to say, Le Kebab Grill’s falafel are addicting — light, airy, and without even the slightest hint of grease. They are made perfect when lashed with a drizzle of tahini or smeared with a dollop of the garlic sauce. 

Each dish comes with a generous side of sliced pita, which you’ll need when you order the shawarma over hummus. I can be a fickle diner and having to choose between lamb and chicken shawarma can be such a hard choice that I most often just ask for  a mix of both, which Le Kebab Grill is happy to oblige. They’re generous with their portions of meat but considering the dish consists of maybe a pound of hummus, you’ll need those pita triangles to scoop up the leftovers. Their hummus is really elevated by the addition of generous amounts of harissa, olive oil, and garlic, and stands out visually with a scattering of parsley on top. If you’re in a hurry or just grabbing a quick lunch before heading back to work, Le Kebab Grill has great shawarma wraps that don’t require a sit-down meal. 

The other stand out entrées on their menu are the mixed grill kebab and the chicken mandi. The mixed grill kebab consists of a chicken, kofta, and beef skewer served over a bed of yellow rice. The kofta skewer, a blend of beef and lamb highly accented by herbs and spices, is the stand out here, though the other skewers offer an interesting flavor and textural contrast. The chicken mandi is half a chicken that’s been rubbed, marinated, and then baked in the oven and served over yellow rice. What really stands out in this dish is the blend of spices and herbs used to season the meat. Cumin, coriander, cardamom, ginger, and nutmeg all come through with every bite making other baked chickens look bland by comparison. I find the yellow rice that is served with each of these dishes to be visually arresting but lacking in flavor. The saffron goes a long way in  beautifying the basmati, but some of that spice blend and salt would be helpful in elevating the taste of the rice. 

Le Kebab Grill is an unassuming little place that has the feel of a neighborhood joint. Its patrons are a good example of the increasing diversity of our majority minority city. If you’ve been to a Middle Eastern restaurant recently, you can probably recite the entire menu from memory. Le Kebab Grill doesn’t stray from the beloved classics but does them so well it doesn’t leave me wanting something new or different. At its heart, Le Kebab Grill is honoring one of the world’s great cuisines with healthy, sparklingly fresh, and herbaceous dishes that always leave you satisfied and content.