Opening during the pandemic in Ballantyne, Prime Fish has quietly gained a reputation for serving some of the best sushi in Charlotte. Chef/owner Robin Anthony is a self-taught sushi chef who learned the craft by dining at some of the country’s top sushi spots. Before opening his own restaurant, he was a sushi chef at Yama’s Waverly location and Red Sake. When Prime Fish began holding monthly omakase dinners, traditional 16-course Japanese meals, they sold out months in advance, leading Anthony to open an Omakase-only spot in Cotswold.

“We want to make Charlotte people proud about us,” Anthony shared with us as he planned to open the new concept. “We want to make Charlotte people proud that we have sushi that’s equal with New York and L.A.”

At $300 — plus a 20 percent service charge and tax — without beverage pairings, Omakase by Prime Fish is one of the most expensive reservations in the city. Readers have asked: Is it worth it? We visited the restaurant — on our own dime, as usual — to help you decide whether to book a seat.

FOOD
The high price point brings along with it an opportunity to try some of the world’s most sought-after ingredients as part of the 16-course tasting menu. Sturgeon caviar atop grilled mushrooms and a creamy corn base is an early statement in the coursed meal, and a generous serving of wagyu — complete with verification certificate stating the animal number and producer — is topped with an equally generous serving of freshly sliced black truffle. Some of the world’s most coveted uni is on the menu, and you’ll also experience the more subtle warmth of freshly ground wasabi root. Each dish is finished in front of you, though some grilling is done in the back. The menu’s highlight is the nigiri, made with warm rice one at a time so the rice warms the fish slightly, releasing just enough oil from the fish that it melts in your mouth. I left feeling satisfied but not uncomfortably full.

EXPERIENCE
Dining on a Wednesday night, my friend and I were the only ones present at the 5:30 seating. While that made the six-seat chef’s counter feel even more intimate, we flew through the meal — the entire experience lasted about an hour and 15 minutes. It was certainly a meal that offers knowledge as well as sustenance; learning about the seasonal fish and their history in Japanese culture was fascinating. Hearing from the chef how to best enjoy each dish — with a bit of wasabi or soy sauce, for example — ensures the best possible bites. However, at such a high price point, I was surprised at some of the design decisions — the neon light from a beverage cooler, for example, detracts from the intimacy. The use of paper napkins feels odd in contrast to the warm cleansing towel you receive ahead of service.

SERVICE
Watching a sushi master at work is a part of the experience you can’t put a price on. Being able to interact with Chef Robin, as he’s known to regulars, is also a valuable part of the meal — we learned his favorite seasons to eat sushi, why he scores the fish before serving it, and more. When the language barrier hinders diner understanding, the knowledgable server — who has followed Anthony to various restaurants — clarifies the conversation. Those who order sake get to pick their own vessel among several; throughout the meal, dishes are served on handmade tableware.

TAKEAWAYS
While Omakase is an experience worth splurging for if you’re a sushi lover, the concept will need to overcome some growing pains if it looks to become the coveted reservation it has the potential to become. It’s unrealistic to expect perfection anywhere these days, yet with the price point of Omakase, you expect to come near it. We anticipate early hiccups becoming less frequent as the concept goes on; for one course, for example, we were trying to figure out how to get the last of the caviar with chopsticks until we asked and were given spoons. The paper napkins are another piece we hope to see change. The wine by the bottle list lists big names that don’t necessarily pair well with sushi, like Caymus and Screaming Eagle — we’d recommend sticking with sake pairings or a bottle of sake. Our server did an excellent job of selecting one based on our wine preference.

For a special night out on a Friday or Saturday, when reservations are at a premium, the price will be worth the experience for those who favor Japanese cuisine. Our quiet Wednesday night dinner felt somewhat lacking in energy when compared to lesser-priced tasting menus at Counter- and Bardo. However, Omakase is on the same price point as places-to-be-seen-at, Michelin-starred restaurants in D.C. and New York. While perhaps in more urban areas like South End or Uptown that wouldn’t be shocking, in the Cotswold shopping center, it does feel like a stretch — a price point to be earned, not expected. The draw of the meal is the warm sushi and incredible freshness of the seafood, and the service will be worth it for those who have the income and prioritize the experience of fine dining — it’s something I would pay for semi-regularly had I the budget. For those who don’t, a 10-course lunch is available for $150, a cost much more amenable to regular visits. We’ll be checking that out next.

Have you enjoyed Omakase yet? Do you plan to? Share your take in the comments.

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