by TM Petaccia

The sea, like farms, has seasons producing ever-changing bounties. Just as our farmers markets are currently showcasing strawberries, asparagus, and spring onions, the Carolina coasts are producing one of the year’s most prized delicacies: soft shell crabs.

Soft shell crabs are blue crabs that have recently molted their exoskeletons and are still soft and pliable. This makes the entire crab edible, shell and all, offering a tender texture and sweet, briny flavor.

Depending on where you are on the East Coast, the season can range anywhere from 2-12 weeks. Unfortunately, North and South Carolina lean on the shorter side.

“The South Carolina season this year lasted a whopping eight days,” says Sean Schussler, owner of Catch On Seafood & Gourmet Market, a home delivery service. “We just had cold nights. The water wasn’t warming up. So the crabs weren’t molting.”

The season has now shifted up to Wilmington and the Outer Banks, where, depending on who you talk with, the season will end sometime in the next ten days, or with luck, sometime early next month. “Traditionally, I’ll see them until the middle of June,” says Mike Cassagrande, owner of Lucky Fish, a fishmonger who sells at Charlotte Regional Farmers Market, Uptown Farmers Market, and Simpson’s Produce on Kings Drive. “I’ll pass on them during the heat of the summer, since they are fairly weak, and then I’ll see another pop in September.”

The reason for the rarity is blue crabs are very particular about their conditions. If the water is too cold they don’t molt, but being too warm isn’t beneficial either, as Cassagrande mentions. It can also be too wet. “When it rains, the females push further out into deeper water,” Schussler says. “They like the salt. Males like the fresher water, but they tend to hide.”

For those looking for soft shell crabs for home cooking, both Cassagrande and Schussler recommend signing up for their mailing lists to take advantage of advance ordering, since availability can be extremely limited. Catch-On Seafood is listing its soft shell crabs at $14.99/each, while Lucky Fish is selling them at two for $20. In addition, Reid’s Fine Foods says they have some in their stores at $13.99/each.

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Restaurant Availability

Since the availability of soft shell crabs is always uncertain, even during peak season, you will rarely see them as part of a standard menu, even at restaurants that update seasonally, but many area restaurants are currently running soft shell crab specials when they can get hold of them. In many cases, acquiring soft shell crabs is a last-minute find, so keep an eye on your favorite restaurants’ social media channels for any breaking menu news.

The Goodyear House, NoDa
Soft shell crab with green garlic hollandaise, asparagus, and fresh herbs. (weekends only, if available)

Chapter 6, South End
Gluten-free chickpea batter dipped soft shell crab with lemon-caper aioli and mixed local vegetables.

Restaurant Constance, Wesley Heights

Jumbo bonito tempura soft shell crab with warm pickled plum, ramp, corn, and cucumber salad. Served with three bao buns.

Supperland, Plaza Midwood
Fried soft shell crab with chili & herb aioli and carrot & tomato salsa.

DŌZO, Wesley Heights
Orion beer-battered soft shell crab with apple slaw and Harmony Ridge smoked bacon aioli.

Mizu, SouthPark
Soft shell crab bao bun with Asian cabbage and spicy aioli.

Fahrenheit, Uptown
Chef Dave Feimster is bringing in soft shell crabs as a weekly feature and doing them three ways: lowcountry soft shell crab po’ boy, spicy gochujang soft shell crab bao buns, and southern-fried soft shell crab tacos.