Last updated: April 2, 2019

In the weeds

The neon lights lining the roof at Fenwick’s on Providence Road are the first indicator of what you’ll find inside. There are no trends here, no tricks, no overambitious dishes. What you’ll find is the kind of dependable neighborhood establishment that so often gets overshadowed in favor of the new.

Chef Catherine Rabb and her husband, Don, opened the restaurant 34 years ago. The restaurant thrives on its homey service and consistent delivery of dishes such as burgers, po’ boys, and meat and seafood entrées. Fenwick’s takes classic dishes, such as tomato soup and Rabb’s pecan cream pie, and makes them from scratch with thoughtful tweaks. The result is a restaurant you crave when you’re down, or cold, or just in need of a place where you know you’ll be greeted with a smile.

That’s the perk of a neighborhood joint; the staff seems to truly care about your well-being. At restaurants where the staff isn’t trying to sell the story behind a menu, their first focus is on you and, here, what seems to be a genuine attempt to make sure you’re happy.

You’ll find many regulars prefer to sit at the bar, and perhaps that’s because of Catherine Rabb’s deep knowledge of wine. She teaches wine and beverage classes at local culinary school Johnson & Wales.  But for me, grabbing a booth is the best place to enjoy your meal. There’s something about the synthetic leather that accentuates the fact that you need not try too hard while dining with the Rabbs.

You can eat healthily at Fenwick’s if you wish by ordering dishes such as the steak salad or grilled chicken, but I’m often too temped by the fried foods to count my calories. I’m not ashamed to say I’ve ordered chicken strips here — they’re an appetizer, not on a kids’ menu! — and really enjoy the fried shrimp po’ boy. None of the dishes strive to impress you with innovation or dainty plating; they’re hearty and cooked with care, and instead strive to be just what you needed when you walked in the door.

That’s not to say a restaurant serving American classic fare can’t impress you. You’ll remember this place for the kindness of the staff, their knowledge and enthusiasm for what they serve, and the feeling that stayed with you as you walked out the door, smiling and saying your farewells. —Kristen Wile