Last updated: November 14, 2019

In the Weeds

There are a lot of talented chefs in this city. I often wonder what they would do if given the freedom to do whatever they wanted; so many are in a position where they’re only allowed to cook within certain boundaries. Some might stay within those confines when let loose, staying with what’s comfortable. It’s the bold I’d be most excited to have cook for me.

Stefan Huebner went bold with Dot Dot Dot, which he co-owns with Foxcroft Wine Co.’s Conrad Hunter. To start, guests must be a member or with a member to enter the bar; yearly membership costs $10. Yet after opening, there were lines along the sidewalk of the door to the speakeasy-esque spot hidden in Park Road Shopping Center’s back lot. The earliest guests tend to nab seats at the bar and stay there, but those aren’t the only good seats. The dining room continues that speakeasy vibe with warm woods, red accents, and low lighting, and the dress code adds a sense of sophistication to the spot. He manages to maintain an impressive whiskey list, and his cocktails are spirit-forward and sometimes unexpected, such as the truffle New York sour, shaken with truffled egg white that gives a hint of truffle flavor to the frothy drink.

What’s stirring in the kitchen is just as impressive. The menu is nearly flawless; even dishes such as the fried chicken — cold-smoked, with a sorghum hot sauce — are memorable. The small dining room allows the kitchen to serve complex composed plates, putting every dish on par with the cocktails. The food is often overshadowed by the star power of Huebner, one of the city’s best-known craft bartenders, but Dot Dot Dot shouldn’t only be seen as a cocktail bar.

Working alongside Huebner is a super knowledgeable bar staff. Point at something behind the bar and ask, ‘What do you think of that?’ and you’ll likely get multiple opinions on how good it is. Jon and I were recently at Southern Spirits, our favorite liquor store, checking out whiskeys. There was one, Nikka Coffey Grain, that intrigued me. I asked Keith, the store’s owner, about it, and he said it was fantastic. Not wanting to commit $70 to a bottle I wasn’t sure I’d like, I asked him if he knew of any bars that carried it. He responded no, with a chuckle. A few days later, we sat down at the bar at Dot Dot Dot, and I spotted the bottle.

At Dot, of course, they not only had this whiskey, but each bartender had a different endorsement of it. It’s a bold choice to have on a menu, and who knows how long it will take to sell. But Dot Dot Dot wouldn’t be what it is without being bold.