Last updated: February 18, 2025

In the Weeds

by TM Petaccia

Football fans (both American and European) are familiar with the choice many teams face when building a successful operation. Do you let the strengths of the players determine the style of play, or do you let the coach set the style and have the players adapt their skills to execute the coach’s vision? Restaurants often take a similar approach. Does the executive chef have full sway over the menu, or do they need to stay in the lines of the owner’s vision?

In the case of Coquette, it is most assuredly the latter. The Uptown restaurant has gone through no less than three executive chefs and a couple of pastry chefs in the little over a year it’s been open. For many restaurants, that would be a one-way ticket to disaster, yet through it all, Coquette has earned consistent, high-quality marks in both food and service. No doubt about it, Coquette is a “system” team.

The eatery is a traditional French buvette, combining morning pâtisserie, lunchtime bistro, and evening brasserie. The atmosphere is “refined casual” — a nice place for Uptown office workers to get away for a coffee break or lunch, and a relaxed place for either dinner with friends or a casual date night.

During the day, the pâtisserie offers the usual specialty coffees and a well-rounded selection of French pastries — including various croissants, tarts, cakes, cookies, and other specialties — along with a quiche of the day. Lunch adds several tartines, salads, sandwiches, and a few select items from the dinner menu, like steak frites and the fish of the day.

But dinner is where Coquette shines.

As an evening brasserie, the restaurant offers a number of classic French comfort dishes — many intended to be shared — plus a selection of traditional Pour La Table offerings. For a shared starter, it’s impossible not to order the beignets de pomme de terre (potato beignets). Crispy outside and beautifully fluffy inside, I’ve ordered this with several dining companions, and each time, I see eyes widen with delight on the first bite.

For a heartier starter, go with the smoked bone marrow. The current version, with new touches under current executive chef Serhii Konovalenko, is flavored with au poivre glaze and bacon peppercorn jam and served with the house French bread (pain de campagne). It can easily be shared between two or even three companions, as with the house steak tartare, which includes traditional elements of shallots, fried capers, and herbs, but also adds egg yolk three ways: raw, cured, and a quail yolk. You’ll also find other hearty bistro type starters like seared foie gras and escargots in Chartreuse butter.

For lighter starters, Coquette offers a classic bed of raw oysters, an excellent plate of seasonal shaved vegetables with the house vinaigrette, a really toothsome mushroom toast, plus a full slate of salads and other nibbles.

The list of for-the-table entrées is short, but exceptional. Coquette’s coq au vin blanc may be the best chicken dish I’ve ever experienced in a restaurant. Again, this dish — made classically with mushrooms, lardons, and riesling lemon confit — is presented with the added tableside touch of your server dividing and plating the bird for two diners. The steak frites rotates between various cuts of steak (ribeye, strip, hanger), and is cooked on point, as are the fries. Other notable choices are the house mussels and the duck fat fried chicken.

A reflection of its daytime pâtisserie, the dessert options are both classic and delicious. A standout since the restaurant’s inception is the apple tarte tatin, caramelized apples on a puff pastry with a caramel sauce. It is served with a scoop of ice cream, the flavor changes with the seasons.

Sunday brunch offers many expected French offerings, such as the classic Crêpes Suzette, Croque Monsieur, and an eye-roll-worthy Sabayon French Toast served with fresh berries.

Overall, the service is friendly, helpful, knowledgeable, and ready to offer suggestions when asked. The bar features a well-curated wine list as well as a solid cocktail program. There have been a few occasions when the server seemed to disappear for long periods of time, making ordering an extra cocktail or glass of wine a little difficult to enjoy with one’s remaining repast.

The big concern here is the restaurant’s inability to maintain an executive chef for more than a few months at a time. So far, the Coquette system has kept everything running smoothly, but it is a factor to keep an eye on. In the meantime, this Uptown restaurant is a fine spot to have an enjoyable French food experience any time of the day.