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    September 14, 2026

    Confessions of an heirloom nerd

    Why eat what everyone else eats?


    Jarrahdale pumpkin from Small City Farm with Carolina Gold rice from Anson Mills. TM Petaccia/UP

    by TM Petaccia, Contributing Editor

    Those who follow my personal channels know I have a thing for farms, farmers, farmers markets, and of my quest for something new and exciting, which most often turns out to be something old. In short, I’m an heirloom nerd.

    I have a weakness for foods that sit outside the mainstream. Not because “old” automatically means better, but because they make dinner more interesting before I’ve even taken the first bite.

    These are edible history lessons, for sure, but they are not museum pieces. Their stories continue because a farmer chooses them, plants them, and raises them, many times helping save certain varieties or breeds from extinction. I have driven over two hours (each way) to buy a Bradford watermelon. I make a trek to Conover every six to eight weeks to buy Mangalitsa pork (from the last “woolly” hog in existence) at 8:28 Farms.

    Aunt Hettie’s red okra from ColdWater Creek Farms. TM Petaccia/UP

    I sprint to Small City Farm here in Charlotte when the Arkansas Traveler tomatoes are in. This past week I got some beautiful, slate blue-fleshed Jarrahdale pumpkin sections there (I’m thinking soup). Aunt Hettie’s red okra from ColdWater Creek Farms, grown via seed originally carried from Tennessee, feels like sharing a family story. About once per year, I order ten pounds of Carolina Gold rice from Anson Mills, and every Thanksgiving includes a Heritage Black Turkey from Joyce Farms.

    There are rich stories behind each and every one of these. Maybe sometime we’ll explore a few of them in depth. But mostly, I buy them because they simply taste great: fuller, heartier, actual flavor. You simply cannot get these flavors from a supermarket aisle.

    Not everyone cooks these days. I get that. But you will occasionally discover some nice finds around town on a menu. This matters because farmers cannot keep these foods in alive by themselves. They need people willing to buy them, cook them, order them, and give growers a reason to plant or raise them again. Ebony Morman’s current series on seasonal menus can be a first step on your own heirloom journey. I encourage you to take it with me.

    We can treasure the flavor, biodiversity, and memories of these proteins and produce, as well as salute the wonderfully stubborn people who refuse to let worthwhile things disappear.

    We can heirloom nerd together.

    Eat well,

    -Tom-

    P.S. Nominations are now open for our annual UPPY Awards. All UP paid subscribers are eligible to nominate which Charlotte-area farms, restaurants, bars, food trucks, artisanal food/wine shops, and the people behind them deserve special recognition. Deadline is September 30. Not yet a UP member? Sign up now!

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