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    August 31, 2022

    Chef’s Takes: Tomatoes

    Charlotte cooks share secrets for maximizing summer’s prime fruit


    A classic panzanella from Osteria LuCa. Photo courtesy

    We at UP are rounding up some of Charlotte’s best to give their best take on a variety of culinary topics. This time, they’re taking a break from the kitchen to chime in on the subject of tomatoes, which are at their peak right now. Editor’s note: Responses have been edited for clarity and brevity.

    The tomato is a versatile ingredient, starring in everything from Latin and Italian dishes to a simple Southern sandwich of mayo and white bread. We’ve selected a few chefs who use tomatoes as a primary base in their regular cooking for their takes on the matter: Sam Diminich, executive chef and owner at one of Charlotte’s most anticipated restaurant openings, Restaurant Constance, owner of Your Farms, Your Table and personal chef to local celebrities like Christian McCaffrey. We also spoke with Shane Miller, executive chef, and Tristen Kellerman, line cook, at Osteria LuCa.

    In Chef’s Takes, we ask, they answer, and you benefit from their expertise. Here’s what Diminich, Miller, and Kellerman have to say about optimizing the tomato before autumn frost arrives. 

    Do you have any cutting and coring tips? How about what to do with seeds and juice when prepping?

    Sam Diminich: With a sharp knife, use the stem as a starting point. Then move in lateral cuts, which helps reduce waste as many coring tools take a lot of flesh. The seeds and juice are basically tomato stock, so don’t waste them!

    Shane Miller and Tristen Kellerman: We suggest using a sharp knife; often paring knives or smaller blades are easier to work with. If you cut directly around the core, this eliminates some waste and keeps the process relatively clean. We also advise letting your tomatoes ripen at room temperature to develop a richer flavor, smoother texture, and brighter coloration.

    What are your favorite ways to use tomatoes? Do you have any preferred brands, varieties, or farms for fresh-picked?

    Sam Diminich: I love summer-time tomatoes, and over time I’ve found ways to use fresh tomatoes that mimic canned, whether I smoke or super slow roast them in an oven. Matthews Farmers Market has the best selection, specifically New Town Farms.

    Shane Miller and Tristen Kellerman: Sauce, caprese, BLT, pizza… The options are limitless. Fresh and canned tomatoes both yield a variety of uses depending on the season, temperature, and preferred flavor palate. A ripe heirloom tomato can be cut into hefty slices over a bed of fresh pesto, drizzled with balsamic glaze, and served with a toasty crostini. Cherry tomatoes sliced and tossed with roasted corn, fresh mozzarella, basil and a white balsamic vinaigrette present a delicious summer salad on any hot day. Whole peeled canned tomatoes simmered over hours with olive oil create a rich red sauce for pastas and pizza alike.

    Are there any unexpected ways to use a tomato in cooking you’d suggest?

    Sam Diminich: I smoke large beefsteak tomatoes to make a gravy out of them. Then, I glaze other vegetables with that.

    Shane Miller and Tristen Kellerman: Tomatoes can be used for so much more than spaghetti sauce and sandwiches. Slow roast tomatoes in oil for a hearty tomato confit that can be added to any pasta dish, served with fresh meats and cheeses on a charcuterie board, or served as a snack over toasty bread. Pickle tomatoes in your favorite vinegar and spice mix for a refreshingly tart treat all year long; not only are these amazing on burgers, salads and sandwiches – use them as a creatively delicious garnish for your next martini or Bloody Mary.

    The puree with Osteria Luca’s timbale uses tomato trimmings. Photo courtesy

    Describe your establishment’s best tomato-based dishes.

    Sam Diminich: At Constance, we will be using tomatoes from the summer that we’ve preserved in jams, as well as on our non-alcoholic beverage menu.

    Shane Miller and Tristen Kellerman: Osteria LuCa offers many tomato-based dishes throughout the seasons. We make our red sauce fresh every day using Bianco whole peeled canned tomatoes, hand-squeezed. They slow cook for hours with olive oil and house seasoning. This is our signature sauce served with chicken and eggplant parmesans and the base for our bolognese and amatriciana sauces.

    Tomatoes are often associated with cultural experiences or regional dining. What are your associations with the fruit?

    Sam Diminich: Summertime and tomatoes went hand-in-hand for me growing up at the beach. Summertime was special in so many ways. It was symbolic of a new season, and as a cook, it was inspiration to create.

    Shane Miller and Tristen Kellerman: Italy, of course. Also, family dinners growing up, homemade Italian Southern cooking, long-standing family recipes. Learning to cook with grandma. Eagerly awaiting holiday meals. Warmth. Southern Hospitality. Comfort. Meals that make you feel warm from the inside out. At the base of many of these dishes are tomatoes.

    What do you do with the leftover bits of tomato to reduce waste? 

    Sam Diminich: We use trimmings to make jams, add to stocks, and always for pickling. 

    Shane Miller and Tristen Kellerman: Our seasonal vegetable timbale side dish is the perfect example of using every part of the vegetable. Thinly sliced summer vegetables, such as zucchini, squash, eggplant, and roma tomatoes are seasoned with fresh thyme and pepper, stacked high and lightly roasted with olive oil. This dish is served over a bed of freshly made vegetable puree, which is made from all of the scrap pieces of the cut vegetables. The scraps are simmered until soft and then blended until smooth. Other vegetable scraps are used to make hearty stocks and vegetable bases; these can then be cross-utilized across dishes adding a depth of flavor and overall richness.

    If you grow your own, do you have any gardening tips for tomatoes? Any favorite varieties? 

    Sam Diminich: I’m not a gardener. I leave that to the pros.

    Shane Miller and Tristen Kellerman: Use tin foil on the plant cage to scare off birds and pests that want to enjoy your freshly-grown tomatoes.

    Want intel on a certain cooking technique or culinary topic? Let us know in the comments, and we’ll get the scoop from Charlotte’s food and beverage maestros.

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