by TM Petaccia

This quintessential deli meat is currently undergoing a bit of a resurgence in Charlotte — as a classic sandwich on its own or in a Reuben variation (traditionally corned beef). There are two schools of thought for how to serve this sublime pepper-crusted smoked brisket: sliced thick or sliced thin. No matter how you slice it, pastrami hits the spot every time. Here are our favorite locally-owned spots around town to enjoy it. In most cases, these will be lunchtime options since many of thee spots serving them close early-mid afternoon. Don’t forget the cream soda!

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The Good Wurst Co., Wilmore/Country Club Heights

Go for: Late-late-night Uptown eats, the fries
With two locations, one just south of Uptown, and the other on the eastern edges of Plaza Midwood, The Good Wurst serves as a breakfast-through-dinner spot for area residents and office workers. The Wilmore location is one of the few places in the city offering after-hours service, serving customers until 3 a.m. through a take-out window on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday. The pastrami is made in-house, and what sets it apart is its brine which gives the meat a rich flavor. The smoke and the pepper are relatively light. Interestingly enough, a straight-up pastrami sandwich is not listed on the menu, abdicating space for the restaurant’s popular pastrami Reuben. But you can order one. Don’t overlook the house fries which are thick and wonderfully cooked. Central Avenue location open Monday-Saturday, 8 a.m.-8 p.m.; Sunday, 8 a.m – 5 p.m. S. Tryon location open Sunday-Wednesday, 8 a.m.-3 p.m; Thursday-Saturday, 8.a.m.-3.a.m.

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Katz Deli, Ballantyne

Go for: Southside lunch, lean meat, early eats
No relation to the iconic NYC landmark deli, Katz still has a long and proud tradition in the Charlotte area, originating in the Arboretum and moving to its current Camfield Corners location about seven years ago. The thinly sliced meat is not made in house, but is quite tasty and leans on the lean side, and is served on traditional deli rye along with a sour pickle. The restaurant opens early at 7 a.m. for those wanting to grab a little breakfast before coming back for a pastrami lunch. Family-centered service is prompt and friendly. Open Sunday-Saturday, 7 a.m. – 3 p.m.

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Meshugganah, Midtown

Go for: Thick-cut pastrami, Joan’s rugelach and black-and-white cookies, takeout dining
Chef Rob Clement caused wraparound lines when doing his pastrami popups at Free Range Brewery and other Charlotte locations. Now located within the Joan’s Deli & Bakery space at The Metropolitan, Meshugganah’s is from the thick-slice school with made-from-scratch pastrami — not over peppery, with a decent hint of smoke. Served on a traditional New York rye with spicy mustard and with the obligatory pickle. You’ll also find traditional deli dishes like matzo ball soup and knishes — plus you can channel your inner Mrs. Maizel with a black-and-white cookie and excellent rugelach. Takeout-only; you can enjoy your repast on the many public patio tables located throughout The Metropolitan. Open Tuesday – Saturday, 11 a.m. – 3 p.m.

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Rhino Market & Deli, Uptown/South End/SouthPark/NoDa/Wesley Heights/Airport

Go for: Fast lunch hour eats, light snack shopping, wine time
It’s all about location with Rhino. Its locations are amongst Charlotte’s heaviest business districts as well as the airport, so fast turnarounds are important. Rhino can crank out orders with almost military precision with counter service ordering and an assembly line back-of-house. The pastrami, while not made in-house, is tasty enough. Known as the “Big Wheel,” it is served with imported Swiss cheese, creole mustard, and sliced pickles. In a slight twist, the bread is a soft pumpernickel which adds a bit of sweetness as opposed to the traditional deli rye. The market offers some some nice “take back to the office” snacks and a fair wine selection to spend a leisurely happy hours after the work day rush. Hours vary by location.

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Rusty’s Deli & Grille, South Charlotte

Go for: Grilled pastrami sandwich, Charlotte history
Now in its 41st year, Rusty’s Deli and Grille has been a southside neighborhood favorite since 1983. The small, unassuming restaurant has undeservedly been flying under the radar in terms of press coverage, but not to its legion of steadfast fans and the Charlotte sandwich cognescenti. The pastrami is good for not being made inhouse, but the grilled rye bread it’s served on is what makes this sammy a must-have. Think the flavor you get from bread in a grilled cheese sandwich: nutty and buttery. Like Good Wurst, a straight-up pastrami sandwich is not listed on the menu ,with the Reuben taking the spotlight, but you can indeed order one. The menu also features a killer patty melt which may just find its way into a future UP guide. Open Monday-Thursday, 10 a.m.-8 p.m.; Friday, 10 a.m.-9 p.m.; Saturday-Sunday, 11 a.m.-4 p.m.

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Schreiber’s on Rye, Optimist Hall

Go for: Hefty thin-cut sandwich, eating mix-and-match with other Optimist Hall tenants, later evening eating
Its website describes Schreiber’s on Rye as “non-religious but culturally Jewish.” Chef/owner Larry Schreiber’s has taken his idea of a traditional New York City Jewish deli and plopped it inside Optimist Hall. This is the closest you’ll get in Charlotte to the iconic big-as-your-head pastrami sandwiches you’ll find in the Big Apple, although still not as eye-popping. However, Schreiber’s packs in a full eight ounces of his thin-cut, made-from-scratch pastrami, which offers light smoke and very light pepper. The rye bread is especially good, with a soft interior and a nice crunchy crust. Sandwiches are served with your choice of a sour or half-sour pickle. Other Schreiber’s options include a traditional corned beef reuben, a variety of Italian meat sandwiches, and the very New York BEC (bacon, egg, and cheese). The Optimist Hall location allows you and your party to mix-and-match your meal with other food tenants, such as Schreiber’s own Bao & Broth. Open Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.- 9 p.m.; Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.- 10 p.m.

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