Last updated: September 6, 2023

In the Weeds

by Kristen Wile

The Degenerate, on the strip of North Davidson in Villa Heights just south of the street’s main stretch, is the Millennial version of the corner pub. It doesn’t have the coziness of the kind of place you’d label a Cheers bar would have, but it’s the kind of place you can bring your friends and recharge through boisterous laughs and a few craft beers. The food, however, is what takes The Degenerate to a new generation of the after-hours hangout spot.

Unlike your typical bar, The Degenerate’s menu brings a rare level of culinary thought to a collection of dishes that includes the stomach-filling fare needed to accompany drinking. You’ll still find bar classics, such as wings and burgers. Yet the majority of dishes indicate that this restaurant and bar was born of a chef’s mind. There’s a significant amount of expertly conceptualized vegetable dishes, like the tandoori carrots with beet yogurt, pomegranate molasses, and mint. The heat of the pulled pork lettuce wraps make you crave the cold beer on your table. Fried banana peppers with ranch or house-made chips with Old Bay satisfy any salt cravings, but with a more sophisticated touch. In fact, the menu can sate just about any craving, with dishes that range from deviled eggs and a delicious seared duck breast to strip steak or falafel. 

The kitchen’s quality is evident in the unexpected fact that it is one of the very few in Charlotte taking the time to serve homemade pierogies. For those with fond memories of the dish, the pierogies are a must order. Served classically, stuffed with potato, cheese, shallot, and bacon, these soft and flavorful bites alone draw me to The Degenerate for a weeknight meal.

Behind the bar, you’ll find a selection of liquor just large enough for the classics, as well as a small but diverse cocktail menu. The beer and wine lists are similarly short, but with enough variety for most drinkers to find a beverage to their tastes. TVs make this a reliable destination for those who wish to watch sports, drink a beer, and still enjoy chef-driven cuisine even in this more casual setting.

The restaurant’s biggest drawback is the lack of the same attention reflected in the dining room. Given the impressiveness of the menu, the basic, almost cafeteria-esque seating area stands in stark contrast. The restaurant made its debut in 2020 during the pandemic, however, when construction costs and supplies were skyrocketing, which may be in part to blame for the unadorned dining room. Yet the vision behind The Degenerate is clear from the menu’s thoughtful touches, and with time, we hope that the rest of the concept can evolve to reach the high heights set by the kitchen. And while its name speaks to a sense of self-degradation, this restaurant is one we’ll be watching. 

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