Even though Alexander Michaels remains closed on Mondays, the restaurant brought its popular Meatloaf Monday special back on Tuesdays. Photo courtesy

We at UP are rounding up some of Charlotte’s best to give their best take on everything from achieving a perfectly seared steak to building a better charcuterie board. This time, they’re taking a break from the kitchen to chime in on the subject of meatloaf. Editor’s note: Responses have been edited for clarity and brevity.

While not for everyone, it’s undeniable that this classic comfort food has a loyal following. Leading up to the pandemic, fans of Fourth Ward restaurant Alexander Michael’s looked forward to its Monday night meatloaf special. When the restaurant’s hours changed following the pandemic to exclude Monday service, regulars reached out. “Originally we were not going to bring meatloaf back until we reopened on Mondays,” Steve Casner, owner of Alexander Michael’s, says. “But since that has not been possible to date, we bowed to our patrons’ requests and now serve ‘Monday Night Meatloaf’ every Tuesday night.”

There are as many family recipes for meatloaf as there are intense feelings about it. That’s why we’ve selected two who know their loaves for their takes on the matter: Gene Briggs, executive chef at Legion Brewing Company, and Casner, owner and operator of Alexander Michael’s. Casner has been with the Uptown restaurant and tavern, a Fourth Ward fixture, since the start in 1983, first as general manager, then in his current capacity since 2005. Both Briggs and Casner take a common sense approach to what matters most in this family table staple.

People have strong opinions — on both sides — when it comes to meatloaf. Why do you think that is?

Gene Briggs: It’s because meatloaf is something that most people can relate to from growing up, sharing food and conversation with family at the dinner table, and usually most moms had their own recipe for it — whether good or not so good. The one we use is what I grew up eating.

Why did you decide to feature meatloaf as part of the menu?

Gene Briggs: Our thoughts on food at Legion all stem from my fine dining background; I wanted to use the same ingredients and techniques but make them more accessible for everyone to enjoy, so you will see a mix of meatloaf and burgers right alongside some of the same kinds of dishes you would find in higher-end establishments.

Tell us more about what elevates the basic meatloaf at your establishment?

Steve Casner: When we first offered meatloaf as a special, our description simply stated, “Mama made the best. We were paying attention.” Our take is in line with that thought, reinforced by recipes that were gathered far and wide to produce a church cookbook 25 years ago — one that my mother, now 97, proofed. Improving on recipes from these ladies (and gentlemen) is futile if your goal is to be authentic.

Gene Briggs: Truthfully, like any food, it is the ingredients that make the dish. If you use the best products, you get great dishes. We source our ground beef from Mullis Family Farm in Mint Hill, and Dale Mullis feeds his cows the spent grain from our brewing process before butchering. He sells us the ground beef, along with some other cuts like heart and tongue.

What should any meatloaf absolutely include (and exclude) in terms of its composition?

Steve Casner: We use Angus ground chuck (and make mashers on the side from scratch). But when this recipe originated, I imagine they used cheaper beef since the point of creating meatloaf was to feed your family well while being as frugal as possible. Even as the high cost of food looms, we aim to keep quality high, though; otherwise, what’s the point?

Gene Briggs: Don’t get too crazy. This goes for cooking anything: If you use good ingredients, let them shine. Meat, eggs, milk, breadcrumbs, and some aromatics are the standard ingredients we use.

From preparing, molding, and cooking meatloaf, where should home cooks direct particular attention?

Gene Briggs: Absolutely the prep. You can’t mix meatloaf too much or it can get tough. Follow the recipe so it isn’t too wet or dry. Molding to me really doesn’t matter much if the preparation and cooking are followed correctly.

How about that ketchup glaze? What is your approach to the shiny topper?

Gene Briggs: We use a basic topping, just ketchup we make in-house with a little bit of brown sugar. We mix a bit of this in with the meat, too.

Want intel on a certain cooking technique or culinary topic? Let us know in the comments, and we’ll get the scoop from Charlotte’s food and beverage maestros.