October 28, 2020
Unpretentious Cooking: Pumpkiny Pumpkin Pie
Reduce pumpkin purée with dark brown sugar for a richer flavor
Growing up in California, my family would regularly frequent Marie Callender’s Restaurant and Bakery. They would go for the sandwiches, soups, and pot pies –– I went for the year-round pumpkin pie. To me, Marie Callender’s pumpkin pie was the best, and was the pie I compared other pumpkin pies against –– and nothing ever compared until I moved away for college. While living in Boston, I had a slice of pumpkin pie at the now-closed Table Restaurant. The pie was dark, almost a burnt color — not the usual orange color we are familiar with — and I was skeptical that it was also going to taste burnt. To my surprise, the pie was so pumpkiny and warm with spices that I instantly ordered another slice. I couldn’t believe how intense the pumpkin flavor was and asked the server if he knew what made Table’s pumpkin pie so good. They reduced the pumpkin purée with brown sugar until dark and a paste-like texture, then added a few tablespoons of maple syrup. This recipe follows Table’s same approach to making pumpkin pie, reduce the purée with dark brown sugar and add a little pure maple syrup. I have had such success with this recipe that I now reduce pumpkin purée whenever a recipe calls for it, because it makes the pumpkin dessert so much better. If you plan to make this pie for the holidays, make it a day early for a fuller, well-developed pumpkin flavor. Top with whipped cream, or if you have the time, top with meringue and toast before serving.

Reduce pumpkin purée with dark brown sugar for a richer flavor. Justin Burke/UP
Pumpkiny Pumpkin Pie
Makes one pie
Ingredients
1 pie dough recipe, here
One 15.5-oucne can pumpkin purée
⅔ cups packed dark brown sugar
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground ginger
½ teaspoon ground nutmeg
Pinch of ground cloves
½ teaspoon salt
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons sweetened condensed milk
⅔ cups evaporated milk
3 eggs, plus 1 yolk
¾ cup heavy cream
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
1 tablespoon pure maple syrup
Directions
- Remove one disk of pie dough from the refrigerator. On a well-floured work surface, roll out the dough into a circle about 12-inches in diameter and ⅛-inch thick. Place the dough in a 9-inch pie pan and press it gently into the bottom and sides of the pan. Evenly pleat the overhanging dough with your fingers to create a decorative edge, leaving a ¼-inch lip to allow for shrinkage. Refrigerate the pie shell for at least 30 minutes.
- Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line the pie shell with parchment paper filled with pie weights or dry beans, and blind bake for 35 minutes. Remove from the oven and remove the weights and parchment paper. Using a pastry brush, egg wash all exposed surfaces of the pie shell. Return to the oven and bake for another 10 minutes, or until golden brown.
- Meanwhile, scrape the pumpkin purée into a medium saucepan and stir in the brown sugar. Place over medium-low heat and cook, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, for 40 minutes or until the pumpkin has reduced and darkened. Remove from the heat and whisk in the cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, cloves, and salt. Then, whisk in the sweetened condensed milk and evaporated milk.
- In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs and egg yolk until blended. Slowly whisk in the cream, vanilla, and maple syrup, then gradually whisk in the pumpkin mixture and continue whisking until thoroughly combined.
- When the pie shell is ready, remove from the oven, leaving the oven set at 350 degrees. Pour the pumpkin custard into the shell.
- Return to the oven and bake for 55 to 60 minutes, or until the custard is just set. The edges of the custard will puff up a little and the center should still have a little wiggle in it. Cool on a wire rack for at least 2 hours. Serve at room temperature or chilled, topped with whipped cream or toasted meringue.
























