Last updated: May 31, 2024

In the Weeds

by Kristen Wile

As I sat enjoying a croissant and coffee at a small bistro table, a man slid a piece of paper to me without a word as he walked out of Renaissance Pâtisserie. It was a tiny watercolor he’d been working on as he sat nearby, depicting a rooster painting a cupcake. It was one of those moments that felt unlikely outside of a sitcom, but there in SouthPark, in a bistro that better reflects a European street-side café than the shiny skyline of Charlotte, it was fitting.

The French have earned reverence in many areas of culture, and their food is perhaps the most deserving of that respect. From flaky pastries to delicate canapés and hearty braised dishes, French fare seems to be sending a message about how food is meant to be enjoyed. The care and time put into creating many French classics demand those dishes be savored with the same amount of respect.

The quiet energy inside Renaissance Patisserie creates an environment to do just that. Though the interior of the restaurant is taken up mostly by a glass counter filled with traditional French baked goods and pastries, the interior is bright with natural light and furniture fit for a bistro lined along the narrow restaurant.

In that pastry case, creations of chef/owner Sylvain Rivet tempt customers with flaky crusts, dainty sweets, and decadent fillings. Back when he was the owner of a tiny bakery off South Boulevard, Rivet quickly became known as the city’s most authentic French baker, bringing the kouign-amann to Charlotte. The pastry, a caramelized-croissant-meets-cake delight, is perhaps even more indulgent than the more well-known classic croissant, which Renaissance creates with near perfection. The cannelé is another favorite, a bite-sized pastry with a sturdy crust that gives way to a pudding-esque interior. Of course, you can’t go wrong with Rivet’s classic croissant, flaky on the outside and buttery soft on the inside.

In fact, given Rivet’s skills with pastries, there is nothing in the pastry case to disappoint. The bakers behind a glass window at the end of the café are bustling with activity at any time of day, whether working on bakery items, savory dishes, items for the freezer, or even custom wedding or birthday cakes.

Closing each day at 5 or 6 p.m., Renaissance is not open for dinner service. There are a limited number of savory dishes available, including French classics such as beef bourguignon, quiches, and tartines. With a fast-casual style of service, dishes are brought to your table on crisp white plates, though water is self-service. The best items on the savory menu are the ones that make use of the pastry case, such as the bacon, brie, and apple croissant. Those items are also the ones that will pair best with the café’s broad selection of tea, coffee, and espresso drinks.

Charlotte is a city that’s always moving quickly, whether it’s the brisk pace of employees dressed in business casual striding Uptown sidewalks or the speed at which our tastes in restaurants seems to change. Yet Renaissance Patisserie, with its patio facing the small courtyard of Specialty Shops SouthPark, offers the chance to experience a change of pace. The small tables welcome you to sit with an espresso and a friend for as long as you’d like. Take the chance. You never know who may be doodling a rooster nearby.