October 10, 2019
Q&A: The critic vs. the common woman
Each week, we answer your questions about food and drink in Charlotte
Q: I really appreciate your restaurant reviews but how do you avoid what Ruth Reichl documented so well years ago at Le Cirque? That critic vs. common woman experience helped to launch Zagat. And, it is certainly true that many of us will forgive food mishaps when we have great service. I know I do. Wonderful to have both, when you can find it.
UP: That’s a really thoughtful question, and I appreciate you asking it. For those who haven’t read Ruth Reichl’s book Garlic and Sapphires, it chronicles the food critic’s various experiences at restaurants when in disguise. It’s a great read.
When reviewing restaurants, we do our best to go unnoticed, usually dining with friends using a reservation under their names. Fortunately for us, I don’t think Charlotte’s service is at a level where front-of-house staff is trained to look for us. There are a few restaurants where I’m certain they are — I’ve only once been able to sneak into Kindred, for example — and some restaurants where Jon and I are regular enough visitors to make going unnoticed hard. At places where I think I may have been spotted, I ask trusted friends about their experiences to ensure they’re no different from mine. I’ve noticed that even when I am spotted, however, visiting a place enough times will still highlight their weaknesses.
Q: My husband and I have found that quite a number of dishes around town, including some at the city’s finest restaurants, seem to be over-salted. We’re not salt-averse; we put salt in all the food we cook, in what seems to me like generous amounts. I’d also say this is a fairly recent development for us, over the past two or three years, and our taste buds aren’t getting any younger. What gives?
UP: Isn’t it amazing how many places struggle with something so basic? Salt can be difficult, because it truly is a personal preference, but I agree with you. I’ve had far too many over-salted dishes around town. And I’m afraid I don’t have too great an answer for you, other than kitchens aren’t tasting their food enough. Perhaps this has something to do with the labor shortage in kitchens — understaffed restaurants (or restaurants making do with poorly trained staff) are doing their best to keep up with orders and rushing things, not paying attention to important details like salt.
Q: Is The Goodyear House still opening this month?
UP: No, the restaurant will likely open in November. Here are some more details about it!
Have a question for us? Email it to us and we’ll answer it next Thursday!
