Jon G’s barbecue has a consistent line when it’s open in Peachland, and when popping up in Charlotte. Shannon Blair/UP

2:24 p.m. That’s when the first person arrived to wait in line at Carolina Beer Temple for a recent Jon G’s Barbecue pop-up. Service started at 5 p.m. Whether visiting the food truck when it comes to town or the Peachland restaurant, people “tailwait” hours to sample Texas-inspired fare from Jon G’s, co-owned and operated by couple Kelly and Garren (nicknamed Jon G by his grandfather) Kirkman.

Kelly and Garren Kirkman, the couple behind Jon G’s. Photo by Jamey Price

“It wasn’t always this way. I don’t like to count our chickens,” Kelly says. “We used to be the ones emailing the breweries asking if we could come cook, without a response.”

The lack of sauce and beef trifecta (brisket, ribs, and sausages) — as well as long lines —  at Jon G’s are typical of Texas barbecue joints. Those lines are not all bad either, according to Garren. Part of the whole waiting experience is making new friends while working up an appetite — and enjoying cold beer and good music, if you happen to be visiting Peachland. Garren recalls doing the same in Texas during his first trip there in 2016.

“I’m super introverted, but I sat with this guy in line. We talked, made friends. When I go back to Texas, I still call him up and eat with him,” he says. “That’s the stuff we hope for. I hate we have a line; I hate people have to wait two or three hours sometimes. But we want them to make the best of it. Get to know each other. Realize the world ain’t full of hate like everybody kind of thinks it is.”

Worth the wait is what many say about Garren’s smoked meats. With a basic salt and pepper bark, he aims to let the smoked meat flavor shine forth first. “To me, barbecue is smoked meat,” he says. “If I’m gonna spend 10 hours [making it], I want that to be good — not the sauce that took me 10 minutes to make. I don’t care what style it is, Texas or Carolina. I just want it to be good.”

Still, he is proudly N.C. born and raised, hailing from Iredell County, so his ‘cue also has Carolina influences.

“The only hang up I have about Carolina barbecue is that it’s all about the sauce, but I’m not trying to make anyone in N.C. mad,” he jokes. Jon G’s menu features a sweet vinegar hot barbecue sauce for the pulled pork, another nod to N.C. with his Cheerwine sausage (which takes more time to prepare than the brisket), and the usual N.C. barbecue sides: slaw, mac and cheese, baked beans, and pickles.

The brisket is Goldilocks-good with “just right” marbling, lightly seasoned crust, and tenderness. The pulled pork is as fine as any you’d have at a pig pickin’, plenty tender and juicy. There’s plenty to say, too, about the sides. Jon G’s beans deliver a cumin-bacon punch, and the jalapeño grits sneak up on you with their cheesy, smoky notes. The mac is the kind you crave from a church potluck, but with a béchamel creaminess woven throughout. Fritos and pickled onions make the already delightful Porky Brewster sandwich even more so. Jon G’s may leave you debating whether you’re on Team Meat or Team Fixins. To top the meal off, the fruit crunch is a must. Its medley of fruit pie flavors harmonize well with a crispy, cobbler-like topping.

More than ten years later, Garren is still refining his recipes. It was initially a N.C. brisket from Mac’s Speed Shop that motivated him to try his hand at the smoker in his own backyard in 2011. Eventually, his hobby grew into cooking for a crowd under a 10’x10′ tent in Monroe at Southern Range Brewing. Along the way, he honed his skills through practice and by immersing himself in the Texas barbecue scene.

“We’ve eaten a lot of bad brisket over the years (ours, not someone else’s),” Kelly says. “Barbecue YouTube tutorials were not around when we started. Along with trial and error, there were many trips to Texas. Garren never trained under anyone though; we just visited and asked questions and fell in love with the whole vibe that people have for barbecue down there.”

Even without pedigreed training, Jon G’s following continues to gain momentum. One constant the entire time has been the support of his wife Kelly to grow the business.

“I’m just the cook here,” Garren says. The two met while working in healthcare in 2009, married in 2013, and purchased the restaurant in February 2020 after Garren turned in official resignation, written on butcher paper. The brand may be Jon G’s, but he is clear: “I am not the business in its entirety. Kelly does everything else. She hires, trains, and supervises staff. She coordinates the catering side of business. She operates the food truck. She handles communications. She’s CFO, general manager, owner, and sides cook.” Kelly is quick to point out that Garren created the recipes and that she just learned how to make them. “We balance each other out,” he says.

The Kirkmans originally purchased the Peachland building to be a commissary for the food truck before deciding to open it up Saturdays. Service begins at 11 a.m. and goes until the food runs out. And it always runs out. “It’s not always been a sell-out kind of thing, though,” Kelly says. “People think it’s always been this way, but it hasn’t. It’s humbling.”

Charlotteans who don’t want to make the drive to Peachland can stop by one of Jon G’s meat pop ups in South End, Matthews, and Waxhaw. There will still be lines, though, so arrive in time to grab a plate. The food truck features specials like the brisket chili and fried rice, not always available at Peachland.

Those making the trip to Peachland find doing so is truly a family affair. Visitors bring their dogs and kids. Some make s’mores when it’s cold. Be sure to make friends with the doorman; he’s Kelly’s dad and keeps a supply of dog treats in his pockets. The Kirkmans’ son Gil, age four and named after Garren’s grandfather, can also be spotted at the restaurant. He makes it his job to drink Big Red and eat plenty of Bluebell ice cream and brisket on those Saturdays.

“He told me the other day he’s going to cook chicken when he grows up,” Kelly says. “I asked him why, and he said because Dad does the brisket.”

The Kirkmans take the time, no matter how busy, to speak with their customers and to make them feel at home. What is next for them: A cookbook? If someone approached. Cooking classes? A possibility. Food stall fixture? Perhaps. For now, they say they are focused on catering, Saturdays, pop ups, and family.

“It’s a 5 to 6 day-a-week job,” Kelly says. “We get asked why we are open only on Saturdays. The majority of our restaurant customers come from Charlotte and farther. Peachland is only about 400 people. We can’t depend on the smaller population for daily revenue.”

“We don’t want to forget why we left corporate culture, who we are, and why we started this,” Garren adds. “To do what we enjoy and to spend more time as a family.”

The Kirkmans are grateful for the success they’re enjoying. “The barbecue community is so supportive, and that means everything,” Kelly says. They, in turn, try to support others. A few of their favorites are Sweet Lew’s and Noble Smoke in Charlotte, Prime Barbecue in Knightdale, and Sam Jones BBQ in Winterville. While in Texas, they stop at la Barbecue, Terry Black’s Barbecue, and Valentina’s Tex Mex BBQ. “Be sure to get plenty of extra tortillas,” Garren suggests at the latter. “They’re amazing.”

When the staff of Charlotte restaurant Banh Mi brought a sizable crowd to Peachland, the Kirkmans made sure that was their lunch spot next time they were in town. “We realize how lucky and blessed we are,” Kelly says. “That’s why we support other small businesses that support us. Without that support, we’re nobody.”

Visit Jon G’s Barbecue in Peachland on Saturdays, beginning at 11 a.m. Arrive early with a chair, cooler, and appetite. Follow Jon G’s on social media for meat pop-up news.