The restaurant: Tucked in the back left corner of the Sav/Way Foods, a Latin American Grocery Store on Central Avenue, is one of the best sandwich shops in the Queen City. Walk down the bread aisle and past the bulk cleaning supplies and you’re there. Neither fancified nor fussy, what this torta stall lacks in curb appeal it far makes up for with sheer force of flavor — not to mention the fact that curb appeal is often times overrated. While you wait for your sandwich — it shouldn’t take more than 15 minutes — take some time to browse the aisles for an extensive selection of Latin American food products and fresh, affordable produce. Remember to stash some bills in your wallet or purse, they’re cash only.

 

The cuisine: In most Spanish-speaking countries, torta means cake. In Mexico, it means sandwich, and a monster of a sandwich at that. As  with a lot of things relating to baking, the world has the French to thank for the bread that provides the base for the Mexican torta. To make a complicated history a little easier to understand, Napoleon III of France was not content to only control large swaths of Europe, Africa, and Asia, he wanted an ally to control the newly independent Mexican state, too. In stepped Ferdinand Maximilian Joseph Maria of the house of Habsburg-Lorraine. Offered the title of Emperor of Mexico by a cabal of greedy European royals, Maximilian gladly accepted. He would face a firing squad a few years later and Benito Juarez, perhaps Mexico’s most beloved hero, would replace him and restore the Mexican Republic. But with the French invaders came their delicious bread, and once Maximilian’s group of French bakers set up shop in Mexico City, the world was given the gift of the bolillo. A crispy exterior and warm, soft interior make it the perfect bread to cram full of delicious ingredients.  

 

Our must order: For the full torta experience, you have to go with the Chilanga. Slang for a resident of Mexico City, the Chilanga is like putting all of Mexico’s flavors in your mouth. Larger than a football, this torta weighs more than most newborns and packs into one sandwich three proteins — German-style sausage, ham, and a fried beef cutlet — as well as lettuce, tomato, avocado, onion, pickled jalapeños, melty cheese, and a slathering of mayo. All of that is then lovingly placed between a sliced, crispy, warm bolillo, cut in half, wrapped in foil, and handed over to the hungry customer. If you’re eating this all at once, be prepared to feel useless once you’ve finished. Throw on some stretchy pants, clear your schedule,  and make your way to the closest couch. The smarter choice is to split a sandwich with someone else and grab some Takis chips and a Jarritos soda before you head to the checkout line.

 

Why we go: It’s simple really: this sandwich does everything right. The lettuce, tomato, and onion are always fresh. The meat is always well-seasoned and just the right texture. The jalapeños offer a welcome kick. The cheese is warm and sharp. In a food landscape filled with mediocre sandwich chains and health-conscious wraps from trendy delis, the torta is an unabashed feast for the senses. And with prices that range from $7 to $12, the bill won’t make your eyes water. Like Godzilla lurking on the horizon, the torta means business, and like the legendary cinematic lizard, the torta is the King of Sandwiches. Leave aside any worries about calories and dive in. —Travis Mullis

Unpretentious People Say...

Other Articles You Might Enjoy