Last updated: February 18, 2025

Opening Thoughts

by TM Petaccia

After three years of providing noteworthy pizza takeout, to the point of being named one of the 22 top pizza joints in the U.S.A. by the New York Times, Nkem and Kerrel Thompson took the plunge for Bird Pizzeria and created a sitdown space for 50 at the edge of NoDa on 15th Street.

This is not a pizzeria you’ll see in any mob movie, with old Italian men wearing grease-stained aprons. Bird, as jazz-aficionados might surmise, is all about cool, smooth jazz vibes — and pizza. Judging by the happy chatter at nearby tables, the concept is being well received.

However, there’s a reason we at UP wait a minimum of three months before doing an official review. While the concept is solid, and the food is what you would expect from a crew doing it for three years, there were several hiccups found in the only new component: the front-of-house operations. All of it easily fixable, but it’s going to take a little time for this to become as smooth as the pizzeria’s relaxed soundtrack.

The first impression was sadly the worst impression. Upon entering, one was hit with the aroma for freshly baking pizzas combined with a strong disinfectant, stemming from the use of spray bottles to clean off tables and bar spots. While it did dissipate of the course of the meal (or maybe it was just olfactorily acclimated), it did linger for the evening. Seating service was a bit confused as the front-of-house tried to determine who should be seated where. Plus, there were delays between drink orders and food orders. Yet this is all forgivable during a soft opening — and is fixable as Bird Pizzeria discovers its own groove.

One other factor may not be an easy fix: The tight wraparound bar seats six, including a stool positioned on the corner where it wraps. Unless you have the wingspan of an NBA center, you may have difficulty reaching your food.

That ends the disappointing stuff. Now on to the positives.

The front-of-house staff is quite engaging, from the bartenders to the servers to the food runners, and ready to share favorites — which finally brings us to the food.

The menu is tight, but a pizzeria doesn’t require an extensive menu. Two salads are offered, a house and a kale Caesar. The house salad, composed of standard lettuces, cherry and grape tomatoes, and red onion is blanketed with tiny bacon bits and microplaned pecorino cheese. It is simple and satisfying.

Pizza choices consist of five themed pies, along with a build-your-own pie with tomatoes and mozzarella, plus options to add beef pepperoni, mushrooms, banana peppers, and hot honey. The Grandad is a standout, and fully loaded with housemade sausage, pepperoni, green peppers, mushrooms, and onions. The thin crust is richly flavorful with the house ovens imparting a magnificent level of char.

Desserts are limited to two choices, but outstanding ones: a pear sorbet and a lemon olive oil cake with buttermilk ice cream. The cake is wonderfully moist with a bright lemon flavor, while the ice cream adds a pro-level mouth feel and firmly complements the citrusy cake.

The bar is small but includes several Italian amaros, some if which find their way into the house cocktails, such as the Amaro Palmer, lemonade with the addition of Montenegro — simple and refreshing.

Bird Pizzeria has all the earmarks for success. It just needs to iron out some opening wrinkles. We’re looking forward to putting this spot back on our radar in a few months for our official review.