Last updated: December 11, 2023

In the Weeds

Yafo chef Shai Fargian and I had a running joke that each time I’d been to Yafo in SouthPark, he wasn’t working at the time, despite the fact that he was nearly always there. The count was over a dozen before he moved to work on opening the Plaza Midwood restaurant, but I never would have known he wasn’t in the kitchen based on what I was eating.

That’s a sign of the consistency we’ve come to expect from Frank Scibelli’s restaurants, which include Yafo, Midwood Smokehouse and Paco’s Tacos. From its opening, Yafo — a fast-casual concept centered on Mediterranean dishes — brought in legions of diners looking for something easy and healthy. Despite the massive output — each location sells 20 gallons of hummus a day — the rotisserie chicken, shawarma, and laffa bread are cooked throughout the day, so you’re not eating something that’s mass produced.

The hummus is creamy and light, the laffa (pita bread) is warm and chewy, and the pair could make for a meal on their own. Yafo offers bowls, wraps, and salad versions of their entrées, which can come as suggested or you can build your own. Guests who want to try a little of each mezze (small plate) can order the latter and choose out of options including beets with pistachios and goat cheese, falafel, and brussels sprouts.

The energy emanating from the people chatting in line is amplified by the restaurant’s colorful interior, with magenta, green, yellow, and blue popping up in accents. You’ll spot folks in workout clothes, friends catching up over lunch, and parents grabbing dinner for the family on their way home from work. Some linger with cans of local beer or house-made teas and juices, some eat and run, others grab and go. That’s the heart of Yafo’s success. We may be too busy to cook, but we’re never too busy to eat well. —Kristen Wile